Cadair Idris

Distance 6.5 miles

Ascent 990m

 

The weather forecast had improved for Thursday so we decided to walk up Cadair Idris. We parked at the Dol Idris carpark, where the café is now only open weekends and started slowly up the steep stone steps. The steep stone steps continued up to a slate bridge that crosses the Nant Cadair and up into the clouds on to Mynydd Moel 863m. As we walked along the edge the clouds started clearing briefly giving us occasional views down across Llyn Cau and the hills beyond. A short rocky climb led up on to the top of Cadair Idris for cloudy photos, then it started to drizzle so we went into the shelter to have lunch. It started raining and the wind got up. Some other people came and went. There was some flask envy. The rain stopped and we headed out. After a bit of path confusion and some slippy rocks, we found the Minffordd Path and dropped down to Craig Cau and up around the sharp ridge above Llyn Cau. The skies cleared and we had great views. The steep stone steps took us down and around Craig Lwyd and Ystrad-gwyn alongside the stream and into the woodland with waterfalls, where we had a sit on a bench near the bottom and laughed at the small child moaning and puffing his way up from the visitor centre.

Ridge Walk to Diffwys

Distance 15 miles

Ascent 1,120m

 

From the cottage, we walked up the hillside through fields and along stonewalls, up past the sheep fort (not disturbing the occupants today) along to Bwlch Y Llan. After a short distance we left the clear path and headed up a very steep grassy, rocky path alongside a wall directly up on to the ridge to Bwlch Cwmmaria. An undulating walk in the clouds took us across the gap at Bwlch Y Rhiwgyr up to Diffwys at 750m the highest point of the day. The trig point sits precariously on a steep edge, shrouded in clouds. There was nowhere conveniently out of the wind to sit and have lunch so we headed down a bit. Here we met a chap (at 462m) who was walking the coastal path and had decided to take the hillier option today and had got lost. We walked down with him a while and gave him directions to Tal-y-Bont, then we left him to continue our walk the other way down along the grassy ridge of Braich to Uwch Mynydd. We stopped part way down for a not very sheltered but large lunch. A pleasant path led along the valley floor and into a wet cow track. Wet cow track eventually became dry cow track which became dry sheep track, then we passed through a farmyard with the smallest digger in the world and out on to a lane. We followed the lane around back into Barmouth and into the Last Inn for beers and dinner, hoping our feet didn't smell too much of cows.

Barmouth via Gellfawr and Levels

Distance 7 miles

Ascent 372m

 

The paths were slightly drier today up the hillside to the fort, and improved by better sock choices. We went to look out from the fort, to the dismay of the sheep, then followed the pretty grass path around the hillside overlooking the sea. We passed a man sitting by the side of the path eating his lunch and had lunch envy. We visited the flag on the outcrop at Craig Y Gigfran, through the old abandoned stone buildings, then walked down the grassy zigzag path down into Barmouth coming out by the old church. We bought lunch and ate it out on the concrete sea defences by the beach watching the tide go out.

Barmouth via the Panorama Walk and Barmouth Bridge

Distance 15 miles

Ascent 590m

We decided to walk into Barmouth along the hills from the cottage. A steep path goes up directly behind, through some fields and along a stonewall which joins a track above Ffridd Fechan. It was possible my sock decision hadn't been the best, the path became quite wet. We passed a hillfort defended by sheep and crossed a bog - proving wrong the cottage-lady who said they don't have bogs here. At Bwlch Y Llan we went through a gate and dropped down to a lane that led down to a wooded path at Cutiau that was quite flooded in places and on to the Panorama Walk. We had a sit on the bench and admired the panorama, complete with red kite and seagulls. In the second bad decision of the day, we didn't bring the flask but the bara brith was good. Leaving the bench we dropped down into the trees and the path led to a carpark on a lane, which leads down into Barmouth. A short ferry ride took us across the estuary onto the shingle on the south bank of the harbour. We walked along the road and top of the beach then around up to the footpath that crosses the Barmouth Bridge, which is now unmanned and has an honesty box. We had a cup of tea outside at the harbour and then had tea at the Royal.

Lancashire Way Day 14

Silverdale to Morecambe
Distance 14 miles
Ascent
Weather: warm and sunny

We walked along a quiet lane (apart from one big fuel lorry with quite a lot of greenery attached) down to the sea front at Jenny Brown's Point, then across the salt marsh. There were lots of black headed gulls squawking and a man with his emotional support car battery.

We stopped for half an hour and saw redshank, lapwing, shelduck, little egret, Kingfisher, a wader that was possibly a bt godwit, sedge warblers.

Passing a tank on the back of a lorry we left the lane and headed up to Warton Crag on a pleasantly shady track. Then we emerged from the trees out on to the summit path where there was a woodpecker, a dragonfly and a girl with a tape measure.

The top of Warton Crag had terraces of limestone carpeted in flowers.

Back down at sea level, we walked around to the salt marsh, pausing to look at a marsh harrier and saw hello to a horse.

Successfully avoiding quicksand, we made it to Red Bank Farm and its caravan site, walking up to the trig point at 21m.

Approaching town, there were lots of small car parks along the lane, with people out enjoying the seaside by sitting in deck chairs next to their cars and sunbathing next to their cars.

There were also people sitting in deckchairs right in front of a bench and using the bench as a table for their ashtrays. Thankfully bench rage was averted.

A hot sunny walk along the promenade took us into Morecambe, visiting Trafalgar Point at the end of the jetty where we had ice creams, but not vanilla as there seems to be a shortage in Lancashire. We are staying at the Midland Hotel and are making the most of our sea view.

Lancashire Way Day 13

Tewitfield to Silverdale
Distance 9.5 miles
Ascent 200m
Weather: warm and sunny

We set off under blue skies, the first part of the walk along the Lancaster Canal Northern Reaches, which is not navigable but they are hoping to restore it all the way to Kendal. That won't be too hard here, but there are parts farther north that are basically stone bridges in the middle of fields.

After not long, we turned off the canal and through a (very clean) tunnel under the M6. Then we crossed fields and farmland to the grounds of Leighton Hall, without disturbing the lambs! And then into Leighton Moss RSPB reserve.

We saw osprey, reed bunting, great crested grebe, a heron actually swimming not just standing by the edge of the water. Greylag geese, coots, Moorhen+j, buzzards, reed bunting, marsh harriers m, f+j. Sedge warbler, reed warbler, a tiny little frog, little grebe, ducks which might have been anything, canada goose.

After leaving the reserve, we crossed a very quiet golf course (judging the lads in the buggy) and followed the footpath through the park and into Silverdale. We reached the coast at Cove Well, where we walked on the first day of our Cumbria Coastal Way walk in 2016.

The tide was out so we walked on the sand (mud) and then spent most of the time between the beach and the hotel trying to get it off our shoes. We are staying at the Silverdale Hotel. The fish and chip portions are enormous.

Lancashire Way Day 12

Kirby Lonsdale to Tewitfield
Distance 19 miles
Ascent 330m
Weather: hot and sunny
Sandpiper, shelduck, sandmartens, swallows, buzzard, little egret, heron, hare and bunnies
Chickens: a million

We left Kirby Lonsdale through the park out along the River Lune and the Lune Valley Ramble.

The going was good, with stunning views, through meadows with sheep and around the flood defences. We had sit on the bank next to the railway bridge. Rob saw a big fish, I saw a big splash.  I don't think the chap in the landrover who opened the gate believed us.

At the Loyn Bridge (which looked very familiar) we decided to not go to Gressingham but avoid the road by staying on the Lune Valley Ramble.

The second part was very slow going, the path was overgrown, we had to crawl under tree branches and through eroded sections quite close to the water. Eventually we emerged into a meadow and walked up the lane to Aughtown. We had lunch on a bench in the village then continued to Over Kellet, through farmland and World of Chicken.

At Over Kellet we had ice creams and a cold drink from the village shop, and another sit down. We crossed some more pastures and the joined the Lancaster Canal, following that  up to Tewitfield, which is the most northerly navigable place. Here there is the Longlands marina, caravan park and hotel, where we are stopping for tonight.

Lancashire Way Day 11

Around Gragareth and Great Coum
Distance 22 miles
Ascent 850m
Weather: wet and windy in morning, turning warm and sunny in the afternoon
Wheatears, golden plovers, Nettles, Bracken, thistles, big moth, blumming huge Hornet, caravanning bunnies

We are staying two nights in Kirkby Lonsdale so didn't have to carry so much today, however there was quite a long walk in and out of the main interesting part.

From Cowan Bridge we walked up the lane through Leck and up, passing some small farms, to Leck Fell and Leck Fell House which is at 400m above sea level. There was a bench that we sat on and then headed up the steep grassy hillside to Gragareth, passing the stone cairns called the Three Men of Gragareth, of whom there were about  six.

Gragareth is the highest hill in Lancashire at 627m. It wasn't the highest hill on our walk  which was Great Coum at 687m, but this doesn't count as it is in Cumbria (and also Kirby Lonsdale is actually in Cumbria too, but shhh.)

It was cold, wet and windy on then tops, the clouds just starting to part as we had lunch on Crag Hill, sheltering behind a wall.

A wet but even path led straight down to a track where we turned left and followed some posts and a stony path over Casterton Fell. A steep drop led down to Ease Gill, where there is impressive geology. The rocks are eroded and underground waterfall took the water away down into the ground. A dry river bed continues down the valley, the water reappearing a half a mile further on. We didn't see that as we were too busy scrambling through some bracken, but we did look into some pot holes. By now the sun had come out and it was pleasantly warm.

A narrow but pretty path led down from Anneside into the valley and we followed Leck Beck back to where we joined it yesterday.

Lancashire Way Day 10

Claughton to Kirkby Lonsdale
Distance 16.5 miles
Ascent 220m
Weather: warm and humid
Cows, more cows, jet fighters

We walked back along the busy road and then turned off up farm track to a footpath towards the river that would avoid some road walking. The path was there and the riverside was very nice. At the end of the path where it met the road in Hornby we saw a sign that a permissive path that joins much earlier and we could have avoided the busy road all together but it is not shown on the OS map. In Hornby we passed St Margaret's church with its octagonal tower, which houses the Claughton Bell, allegedly the oldest bell in England. I googled this and it turns out there is fierce competition for this title.

The way went on through fields by the side of the river. There were cows. Lots of cows. Then some more cows.

We said goodbye to the cows and crossed some stiles into an empty field near to the railway bridge over the river Lune by Melling.

There were lots of fallen branches and I fell over one them.

From Melling to Wrayton we walked through more cow fields and through woods.

We called in at the Lunedale Arms for a cold drink and then continued on Tunstall. The main road continues straight on into Kirkby Lonsdale but we turned off up a farm tracks by Cowdber Farm and Collingholme to cross the A65.

We walked along the side of Leck Beck to Cowan Bridge were the footpath on the map that wasn't there wasn't there. So we walked around a lane, where there was a bench so we sat on it.

Crossing some fields, thankfully now sheep fields rather than cows, we crossed the Devil's Bridge into Kirkby Lonsdale. We are staying at the Orange Tree Hotel and are looking forward to a warm wet day on the hills tomorrow.

Lancashire Way Day 9

Dolphinholme to Hornby
Distance 24 miles
Ascent 850m
Weather overcast, windy in the tops

The start of today's walk was along the Wyre Way. We crossed some sheep fields while an  oystercatcher squawked at us in an annoyed (and quite annoying) way.

A pleasant woodland path led out on to open fields where a buzzard and kestel were out hunting.

We followed a track up from Grizedale Barr to Grizedale Head, passing Luncheon Hut (as it was too early for lunch) making good time, about 3mph.

Leaving the track we crossed peat moorland, heading up to Ward's Stones, where we had lunch (bread, ham and cheese bought from the Fleece Shop at the pub) sheltered from the wind behind the stones.

We crossed the plateau between the trig points, with the song of skylatks just audible over the wind.

There were lots of black backed gulls nesting on Mallowdale Fell. The path went through grass, moss and stones over the moors, via Wolfhole Crag, where thankfully there were no wolves in holes.

A bit more bog and we made it up on to the Hornby Road, about a mile or so west of where we turned off last week. Our average speed had dropped to 2.2mph. The Hornby Road is a byway open to all traffic, we saw a couple of bikes on it before we got there and a landrover as we were walking along. The landrover was driving back just as I was picking up a balloon from the heathery ditch by the side of the track and they stopped and said they would take it with them.

The track became a lane at High Salter and we followed that, the quiet lane becoming a less quiet lane, then quiet a busy lane and then a blumming busy road. We were able to leave that before we got squipped and walk though Farleton and its old road to reach the Fenwick Arms.

We have had a good dinner and sit down while the lady at the next table posed the eternal question...
How many anvils did you buy?

Lancashire Way Day 8

Glasson Dock to Dolphinholme
Distance 15 miles
Ascent 350m
Weather: warm and sunny

Parachutes, canoers, swans and cygnets, kingfisher, benches in the sun, friendly cows, cute puppies 

We had breakfast watching the ducks and swans swimming and a cow having a paddle in the canal. Once we'd left the hotel were immediately were on our way along the canal  tow path.

We walked along to Glasson Top where the branch canal meets the main Lancaster Canal (Regional Winner of the Bridge and Lock competition 2002) and turned south to Potters Brook. There was a map on the information board showing a cafe, pub and craft centre to the north and to the south: a duck.

This stretch of the Lancaster Canal is very popular and there were plenty of boats to look at. The sun had come out and it was very warm. 

Leaving the canal we walked through a caravan park and a cow field into Scorton where we had lunch on a shady bench.

We crossed the bridge over the M6 and walked up a lane and up on to the moors, where a chap greeted us with a 'morning' at 1.15pm which might be a record.

There was a steady stream of people all headed up to Nicky Nook (215m) and gathering at the summit trig point, spoiling the views slightly. We carried on walking down into Grizedale and along the edge of the reservoir.

A pretty wooded path with a stream led along the valley where some boys had lit a fire, a woman was telling her small child that there was no need to swear and whoever had come through the gates last had left them all open.

There was a short section of road which was surprisingly busy and then we left on a narrow path through the heather. We contoured around the edge of Harrisend Fell and had a sit down on a big dry stone cairn thing and admired the views of Morecambe Bay, Heysham and Blackpool Tower.

A grassy path at the tree lined edge of sheep fields led back to the lane and we followed the river Wyre into Dolphinholme. We are staying at the Fleece Inn which is just down the road.

Lancashire Way Day 7

Preston and Lancaster to Glasson Dock
Distance 18 miles
Ascent 150m
Weather: warm and sunny
Common terns, toad, shelduck,

We set off from the hotel, which is about 4 miles east of Preston and walked along the Ribble Way into town. The route was dry under foot and we saw sandmartens nesting in holes along the riverbank, swallows, terns, lots of fishermen and some placid cows. This is the end of the Central Loop of the Lancashire Way. A bit of shopping and lunch in the park in Preston and then we caught the train to Lancaster. The train only had two carriages and was very cheap so it was quite full.

We had a look around Lancaster, some of it twice and then set off on the Northern Loop of the Lancashire Way down the Lancashire Coastal Path along the River Lune. The tide was in, the pools on the salt marsh full. There were views to Heysham power station and the Cumbria Fells. After a bit we joined a disused railway and the tall hedges and trees on either side meant there were no views. There was also no bench rage.

We walked around into Glasson Dock around the marina and had ice creama sat at the view point on Tithe Barn Hill, a dizzying 20m above sea level.

The Glasson Dock branch canal leads back in land, to join with the Lancaster Canal. We are staying at the Mill Hotel and some people are having a party.

Lancashire Way Day 6

Ribchester to Preston
Distance 11.4 miles
Ascent 150m
Weather: warm and sunny

Sandmartens, coot, moorhens, grey heron, common terns with babies, sandpipers, a hobby, great crested grebe with ruff, tufty duck, curlews, oystercatcher, lapwings, deer x2, buzzard, reed warbler, sedge warbler, chiff chaff and a blackcap.

Our accommodation was right on route, so we were right out of the door and on our way. The lane led through the farmyard and Roman Fort, then into farmland along the Ribble Way.

The grass meadows had dragonflies and butterflies and there were curlews calling. The first people we saw were a group of children with bikes from the activity centre who were looking quite doubtful about being in the middle of a field with their bikes.

The farmland was mostly cows, who have a way of making things muddy. We followed a footpath which had a sign saying it was closed due to a landslide but that was in 2013 so we decided to try it. The footpath was fine apart from a little dell where Tun Brook flowed. Here the path was a steep muddy slope down to a bridge and back up. Then we walked by a solar energy farm and a noisy industrial estate, where it smelled of toast. Here there was another sign about the footpath closures, this one saying that the route we had taken was the route we had to take as the other footpath was closed. Bit confusing.

At Brockholes nature reserve we visited the visitor centre for lunch then did a bit of nature watching.

A short walk along the river and we were at the hotel, where we have a riverside view, and of the M6.

Lancashire Way Day 5

Thornley to Ribchester
Distance 17 miles
Ascent 480m
Weather: warm and sunny

Loaded up with lunch we set off from the hotel along Lords Lane, which leaves the main road near to Lower Cockleach and Higher Cockleach. We didn't go to either.

A short stretch of muddiness led up into a rabbit field. There was a rather grand looking house where some bunnies were relaxing by the pool.

A lane led up on to Longridge Fell then we went through a gate on to moorland and bog. We admired the views from the trig point at Spire Hill before crossing a wall and going into the woods.

The paths through the pine trees were boggy muddy with other walkers and mountain bike ruts. We made our way out on to a forestry track and a quiet lane into the valley.

We followed a river bank (passing a sign asking people not to have picnics on this stretch) path through woodland and mud. At a more pleasant spot, definitely not on that stretch, we had lunch sitting on a pebbled beach, with a hare and a heron.

Our route took us through the grounds of Stony Hurst college in a very circuitous fashion because a bit of the driveway is it a right of way. That didn't seem to be stopping anyone else from using it. At the end of their drive we a sit down under a big statue of JC squashing some cows and Yoda with his space hopper. Rob tells me it's not JC, it's Mary squashing some cows and Yoda with her space hopper.

We walked down a lane to the River Ribble crossing by the new bridge that has just opened replacing the suspension ridge washed away in 2015 and had a sit on a bench and had tea and cake. More muddy fields and woods took us along the river to Ribchester Bridge and into town. We are staying at the Riverside Barn B&B which is somewhere near the river. Perhaps.

Lancashire Way Day 4

Slaidburn to Chipping
Distance 21.5 miles
Ascent 900m
Weather: warm and sunny
Hare, curlews, oystercatchers, meadow pipits, snipe, male hen harrier, kestrels, mountain bikers
Powered by shortbread

We made our way out of the village by a quiet lane then up a steep path leading up to fields of long grass. We crossed several fields by stone steps over high walls.

There was a choice here, either go over the bridge now and then along the side of the beck on boggy and indistinct path or follow a clear path up the brook but there be not bridge. We chose bridge. The other side was open access land, so we just headed up, following a route that someone on a quad bike had used. This led up to a gate and out on to Hornby Road, which is an old t
Roman Road. At Hard Hill Top we took a narrow grassy path down into Whittendale, following the beck (Whitendale River, which becomes Dunsop River) into the valley. It was quite boggy in places, especially where they'd put duck boards in and the bog had expanded around it. The valley was beautiful, wooded with sheep fields and streams.

We had lunch sitting on a bench looking down the valley and then followed the lane (almost) into Dunsop Bridge. We skirted around the town, going through some large wrought-iron gates and into cow fields.

After a bit of road walking we turned off at Hareden and followed a path through fields (and bog) to join a track that follows Langden Beck up to Fiendsdale Head. Thankfuly we didn't meet any fiends.

The path leads up to Fairsnape Fell from here, necessitating crossing quite a wide, deep stream so we rolled our trouser legs up and waded across. Then a narrow rocky path led up the hillside, emerging into peat bogs and groughs.

We followed a grassy path down over Blindhurst Fell and back up onto Parlick, where there were lots of paragliders and runners.

A steep grassy slope took us down to Fell Foot, where we joined the lane into Chipping. Here we called a taxi, as it was getting late by now, and we are staying at Ferrari's Country House Hotel a couple of miles away. We have been very well looked after and our room is like something from a period drama, with a massive canopy bed.

Lancashire Way Day 3

Barley to Slaidburn
Distance 19 miles
Ascent 800m
Weather: wet in the morning, dry afternoon
Rooks, skylarks, meadow pipits, curlews, oystercatchers, swallows, barn owl, hares, tiny bunny, cuckoo


We were not cooking on gas this morning, as it had gone off. So we had double helpings of cereals and had rumbling tummies a couple of times during the day.

We walked through the park and then up the lane to Ogden Reservoir with windblown wooded hillsides. At the top of the reservoirs we turned up a rocky path up the side of a gully. This is the Pendle Way, which is supposed to be the route that the accused walked to Lancaster for the witch trials.

The rocky path led across the moors, there were circling rooks and skylarks overhead.

As we approached the top of Pendle Hill the low cloud turned to rain. It eased off fairly quickly but there was drizzle for a while.

Coming down Downton Moor we met a chap who is on day 10 of his Lancashire Way walk. His dog took advantage of the break to have a lie down.

We walked through Downham village and tgeb through some fields. The rain became heavier so we sheltered in barn doorway for a while, seeing a barn owl fly up to some nearby trees. This part may not strictly have been on the official route, but we saw a barn owl so it was all good.

We crossed over a very narrow arched stone bridge and several very over-engineered stiles. Coming through a field of grass, Rob nearly stood on a Hare, the first of four that we saw today.

We had lunch on a bench in the grounds of Sawley Abbey, watching the people looking at the ruins and trying not to get everything covered in orange juice.

We crossed the road bridge over the River Ribble (looking very high) and then walked up the lane into Grindleton. The lane was quite steep, a chap on a moped having to push with his feet and nearly ending up in the hedge in the process.

A straight bridleway went up onto the moors, becoming more narrow and rocky. Ee stopped for sit down by wall and then followed more straight grassy paths passing some piles of stones called The Wife and Old Ned. The latter looked a bit collapsed. On the horizon we could see Fountains Fell and the Yorkshire Three Peaks.

A stony track led down off the tops through farmland and into Easington. We followed the wet riverside path into Newtown and then the footpaths up to Great Dunnnow Woods were the path was completely flooded. The ducks paddling on the path was our first warning. Rob waded through it and I went to investigate a possible detour through a gap in the fence. There was not a way through but there was a lot of nettles. As I went back to the gap Rob noticed people had crossed further to the other side so I was able to avoid the deepest water.

After that we decided to walk along the road into Slaidburn and avoid the next bit of riverside path. We are staying at the Hark To Bounty.

Lancashire Way Day 2

Mellor to Barley
Distance 16.5 miles
Ascent 700m
Weather: mostly warm and sunny
Kestrel, serendipitous pack of tissues, nervy cows, frog in a bog

We took at early detour up on to Mellor Moor to see the remnants of a nuclear observation bunker from the 1960. The tiny space was completely cut off from the outside world, occupied by 3 men on 2 week shifts and it must have been pretty miserable.

Returning to the road we followed that for a while before turning off into a cow field, the cows not paying us much attention but very agitated by a dog walker going the other way.

Leaving the field we went up hill though a housing estate on a narrow path between fences which allowed occasional sneaky peeks into people's back gardens.

A pretty track led across Wilpshire Moor above Dean Clough reservoir then through sheep fields with patches of gorse.

There was some unnecessary stile crossing and then some wobbly stile crossings.  A steep lane dropped down into Whalley and we called in at the co-op for supplies but didn't go to look at hats in the outdoor shop, which was regretted later.

We stopped for lunch at the picnic spot at Spring Wood with the squirrels. There were squirrels enjoying some yoghurt, squirrels having a play on the fence and squirrels snoozing on the picnic tables. It was warm and sunny but dark clouds were gathering behind. A rocky path next to a drystone led up on to moorland becoming more grassy as we went higher. It rained for a short time then the sun came out again.

Crossing the Nick of Pendle we went up over Pendleton Moor, stopping to take waterproofs off when they'd dried. I was just putting mine into my rucksack when a long haired retriever emerged from a boggy puddle and came to shake itself off over me.

The sunshine brought the skylarks but the ground was still very wet underfoot and I nearly trod on a frog in a bog. We stopped briefly by a wall to adjust socks and there was an M&M incident.

Passing Fell Wood we came down into Newchurch in Pendle, the witches shop had just closed and we weren't able to get a broomstick, so we walked on into Barley.  We are staying at the Barley Mow and our room overlooks a stream with ducks on it. It is the full moon tomorrow so we shouldn't be disturbed tonight by any witches.

Lancashire Way Day 1

Preston to Mellor
Distance 21.5 miles
Ascent 800m
Weather: cloudy, rain in afternoon
Things on hands: creosote, dog snot, mud
State of feet: mild decay
Dog bench, runners, oystercatchers, grey wagtails, deer, kingfisher

We had got the train from Manchester to Preston yesterday evening and set off after breakfast this morning, after calling in at sainsburys for supplies, including lunch and more cold and flu tablets.

We set off through the park, narrowly avoiding getting trampled by hordes of runners.

We followed the River Ribble which was considerably higher than when we were here at Easter. There has been quite a lot of rain. At that point there was just high cloud some patches of blue sky.

The route was on pavements for about 3 miles, then the pavement went away and we were on verges, then walking along the edge of the road until we'd crossed the bridge over the M6, just south of j21. Almost straight after, we turned off up a track by fields of sheep and oystercatchers. Once we'd got through the gate anyway.

We followed the banks of the River Darwen for a while, then reached Cardwell farm, where the path abruptly became a stinky cow swamp. After some thought we decided to turn back and make a detour around. There was a footpath not far away through a grassy field so we went that way. Rob nearly stood on a squirrel. Then we had to battle with a barbed wired up gate but we made it to the lane with relatively clean shoes.

The path went around a walled wood around Houghton Hall with gates (possibly door) and deer. The Hall (and tearoom) is closed on Saturdays so we didn't go up the drive, instead we stood under some trees and put our waterproofs on as the heavens opened.

It eased off after a while and we had a sit by river for lunch, along with some midges and friendly cows.

Riverside path became grassy fields through farmlands. We stopped for tea and cake at the visitor centre at Witton Country Park then walked up Billinge Hill to the misty viewpoint, through woodland with slightly bedraggled rhododendrons. The clouds began to clear and there was some sunshine. Also some mud.

We left the woodland, crossing a very muddy bridge then down a slippy stone path, crossed a few wet grassy fields before emerging out on the road just outside of Mellor. We walked up into the village to the Millstone Hotel, where our room is up three flights of stairs.

Last Weekend

Saturday
16 miles

It rained pretty much all day. We walked to Daisy Nook in the rain, had a sit in the cafe with cups of tea and bacon butties then walked home. In the rain.

Sunday
Not far
We went to Shaw for brunch at the Shay Wake then Asda where we bought some suncream. The sun disappeared as we walked to Dunwood Park, dark clouds appeared and we sheltered under the trees from the rain a bit as we'd not brought any coats with us. It didnt last long and then we walked home.

Training Walk to White Hill

Distance 19miles
Weather wet

We walked up to Ogden Reservoir and Windy Hill, then crossed the road and up to White Hill.

The moorland grass has started to grow back now after the fire and it's quite green up there. We had a sit down by  some sheep by the wall at the gate by the Oldham Way/Pennine Bridleway junction. There was some debate about the best way to get back and we ended up walking down a very wet, slippy overgrown lane into Denshaw then along the road for a while to get to the lane that heads upto Brushes Clough. We went straight on at the top over to the reservoir and back along the track.

Training Walk - Brushes Clough

Went out late as it was raining all morning.

Over Brushes Clough to the aerials, then wandered around a bit.

Bank Holiday Training Walk - day 3

Todmorden to home
Distance 20.5m
Ascent 780m
Weather rain, cloudy

After a massive breakfast, we set off from the Staff of Life and retraced our steps up the winding path on to Todmorden Moor. We continued straight over (clouds gathering ominously) and followed the track around Inchfield Moor over Hades Hill and along the Rochdale Way. Above Watergrove Reservoir we rejoined our path from Saturday afternoon and headed back towards Wardle. The convenience store was inconveniently closed and by now it was about 2pm and we were getting hungry. So we walked to the cafe at Hollingworth Lake and stuffed our faces with hotdogs and cakes.

from here we walked under the motorway and up to Tunshill Hill, then across Ogden Reservoir, taking the lower path home from Haigh along the Oldham Way, through Brushes Clough and along the track home.

Bank Holiday training walk - day 2

Whitworth to Todmorden
Distance 17.5 miles
Ascent 885m
Weather: rain, drizzle, sunshine, drizzle
Things we were accompanied by: cows, horses, starlings

We had a cosy breakfast in front of the fire at he Red Lion before heading out into the rain. We walked down the hill to the shop for supplies then through some housing estates and up on to the moors. A group of cows was sheltering from the weather behind a tumble down wall, but we were far more interesting so they came with us for a bit.

It was wet and claggy up on the moors, we followed the Pennine Bridleway for a while, big puddles between the rows of raised slabs. We went over Rooley Moor and Brandwood Moor,  through Rawtenstall to Lumb and on to the Dunnock Shaw nature reserve at Red Moss. Here we left the bridgeway to walk through the nature reserve and the sun came out.

We crossed Deerplay Moor and Todmorden Moor, both covered in sheep and little lambs, before coming down the pleasant path at Eagle's Crag to the Staff of Life Inn.

Bank Holiday Training Walk - day 1

to Whitworth
Distance 11 miles
Weather cloudy

We set off about midday after an early lunch. We walked to Ogden Reservoir and then over to Tunshill where we crossed the M62. The path goes around some fields and passed an equine centre, where they had lost their dog. A series of lanes and footpaths skirted around the edge of Rochdale, I was completely distracted by the possibility that we might have got tickets to the Cricket World Cup semi final, a fact which wasn't confirmed until the next morning.

We crossed the Pennine Bridleway and dropped down to Whitworth. We stayed at the Red Lion which was ok but doesn't do food so we went to a local place that was odd to say the least.

To Tandle Hills via Newhey

Distance 16 miles
Ascent 525m
Weather cloudy but dry

We walked to the Premier Inn at Newhey for breakfast, where we stuffed our faces. Rob changed his shoes part way, I made it til later in the day before changing mine.

From the hotel we walked up behind Ellenroad along the Rochdale Way to Tandle Hill, slowly, and then around the park (after a sit down by the memorials) and then back along the Oldham Way / Crompton Circuit home.

Lunch at the White House

Distance 21 miles 

Ascent 850m

Weather overcast but dry, some blue sky but the other way

Slugs, oyster catcher

We set off from home to walk to the White House at Littleborough for lunch. We went over the fields behind the cattery to Ogden Reservoir and then up around Binns Pasture to Windy Hill. We crossed the motorway and over Blackstone Edge, which was very popular, passed the Aiggen Stone along the Pennine Way. 

After lunch we headed down the roman road to the Rochdale Way, over the motorway at the farm bridge and the back round to the bench (which was most bird pooy) overlooking the reservoir, where we had tea and biscuits and met a sheep. 

A rash decision was made to walk back to the lane back to the cattery. It was long. Long and steep. Another sit down on a bench on Brushes Clough, then we walked home along the track. 

Rob went up to the co-op for supplies. It was Eurovision, but we didn't make it through the interval. 

Bank Holiday Weekender Day 2

Scapegoat Hill to Eagles Crag 
Distance 20 miles 
Ascent 800m
Weather dry but overcast
Donkeys, deer, fox, woodpecker, fighty sheep, posh curly sheep, cute little lambs

We left the Pennine Manor Hotel and walked down the hill on a pretty track, where we (and by we I mean Rob) decided to avoid a bit of road walking by following a footpath that ended in a bog. We made it out by a slightly less wet path nearby. A couple of times today we had to try and navigate around houses where footpaths are confusing or obscured - we talked about being more belligerent and asserting our right to pass on rights of way - as it was we just tutted and walked around. 
We got lunch at the co-op in Ripponden and ate it sitting on a bench on Coal Gate Road. The bench wasn't very sheltered but had a good view of the wind turbine.

A path over the moors led up to Manshead End, which has a trig point and impressive views over Rishworth Moor and Soyland Moor, before heading back along the wide ridge to Great Manshead Hill.

We crossed the valley at Crag Vale then went up Cove Hill and along the footpath around the edge of Turley Holes and Higher House Moor, which proved to be very holey indeed. The gate at the other end by the dam wall at Withins Clough reservoir was padlocked shut so the path is still officially closed. We were able to squeeze through the narrow gap between the wall and the gate post. 
We walked round the drystone walls up to Withins Gate, the cows here distinctly unimpressed with us. We crossed the Pennine Way and dropped down into Mankinholes where there were lots of people enjoying the garden at the YHA. We still had miles to go. 

A nice grassy link path took us through sheepy fields down into Todmorden, then we were on pavements until reaching the Staff of Life. It's amazing how much longer 10 minutes seems when you're on the last uphill walk of the day compared with 10 minutes to get ready for dinner.

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Bank Holiday Weekender Day 1

Newhey to Scapegoat Hill
Distance 15.5 miles
Ascent 800m
Weather dry but chill wind 

Seen: skylarks, wheatear and pipets. Common sandpipers. Reed buntings, linnets, swifts, swallows and a kestrel. A large remote controlled plane being flown very closed to the M62. Big black cloud.

We walked to the Spar in Milnrow and then through a housing estate to the tunnel under the motorway as we've not been this way before - it's not as nice as going through the park to the little shop in Newhey so probably won't go that way again. 
Up on the tops it was as cold and windy as it usually is, we crossed the motorway by the footbridge and turned right down to the  Green Withins reservoir and around on to Blackwood Edge Road path. We dropped down through the farmland and down into Booth Dean Clough to cross below the reservoir. A short steep section up took us out of the woods and then under the M62 by Stott Hall Farm and on to the moors. We zigzagged down to Deanhead reservoir, stopping for lunch overlooking the water. 
We followed the Kirklees Way (big K)  around Scammonden and up on to the tops, along the Causeway and Crimea Lane almost direcly to the door of the Pennine Manor Hotel. 

Bank Holiday Weekender Day 3

Eagles Crag to Oldham
Distance 18 miles
Ascent 800m
Weather mostly dry, cloudy


After a well-timed breakfast we left the Staff of Life stuffed and walked up and around the hillside edge above Robinwood. We were passed by some runners, soon out of side. We followed the Calderdale Way around Todmorden Edge, down to cross the road by the canal and up the moorland. The path along to the Long Causeway and the wind turbines. We passed some people who couldn't open a gate and then saw a wall cow.


We had a sit down on the moors and wondered if we were going to get rained on, there was a lot of weather about, then skirted around Clay Pots Hill to join the main path down to High Lee Slack and Higher Shore.


We made our way through Littleborough to Hollingworth Lake, which was rammed as usual and then we walked under the motorway bridge around Tunshill Hill and around Ogden Reservoir. With achy feet we took the (slightly) less hilly route home through cow field, Brushes Clough and along the track.

Bank Holiday weekender day 0

To Newhey, 4 miles

We set off from home in light drizzle, stopping to put rucksack covers on and watch the rain over Manchester. 

It was much cooler than of late, not sure what temperature you can see your breath but we could.

Lancashire Way Day 5

Withnell to Preston 

Distance 17 miles 

Ascent 300m

Hare, reed bunting, curlew 

We left the hotel and walked back along the lane to rejoin the route. The walk this morning seemed to be mostly through farmland, Grassy sheep fields and around the edges of some crop fields. As it had been dry the going was good, although many of the stiles today were very rickety. 

We stopped for some camera battery faffing, five days without charge too much to ask, under watchful gaze of a horse. We crossed Chorley Road and walked though the village, complete with a bungalow with battlements and back into farmland. 

We saw a sign warning us to Beware of the... something, possibly the badly tied handle on the electric fence. 

At Hough Hill we went up to the top of the hill to visit the trig point and then followed a narrow path between cliff edge and barbed wire and gorse around the old quarry at Denham Hill. A bit of scrambling back down to the road, this bit probably isn't part of the official route. 

There was a section of road walking around fairly quiet lanes to get back to the canal towpath, to see a flight of 7 locks. Unusually there were benches on the towpath here, so we had a sit down and some tea. 

Farther along the towpath we saw Grey wagtails, a buzzard, snoozy ducks and reading about boat rollers while Bailey the dog rolled in something disgusting. 

A low tunnel took us under the M61, then into the pretty village of Whittle Hills with olde cottages complete with peacock. We walked along their newly refurbished path, and admired the handy work of the residents who had rebuilt the dry stone wall. 

Then into Cuerden Valley Country Park where we had another sit down and then had (a massive) lunch at the visitor centre which had been built by volunteers in 2018. 

Leaving the park we went over some land which is being developed, there was a massive hole in the ground and loads of fences everywhere, thankfully the path.was still accessible and there was a way through onto another disused railway line. This led to the Old Tram Road which took us into town and the railway station where our walk ended.

Lancashire Way Day 4

Adlington to Withnell
Distance 20.3 miles 
Ascent 600m
Weather: warm and sunny, breezy on tops
Woodpecker, skylarks, wheatear, nuthatch 


We left the hotel after breakfast, snaffling some fruit and a pastry as we weren't sure where lunch would be coming from. We walked to the reservoir the way we'd walked back yesterday evening. The train was only about 30 seconds late this time. 


We walked around Anglezarke and Upper Rivington reservoirs, observing their No Dancing with Fish signs. At Rivington village we had tea and cake at the village tearoom and got sandwiches to take away. Then we walked with the masses up to the Pigeon Tower and Rivington Pike, admiring the work they are doing on restoring the gardens. And having a breather, it's a steep hill on a hot day with a big bag. As we approached the top we overheard a warning that it was like the Antarctic at the top. It was a bit breezy. 


We didn't stop with the crowds long and carried on over the moor to Winter Hill, still recovering from the fire last year. We heard a couple of skylarks near the top. Passing a red rose emblazoned trig point we stopped for lunch on the hillside and ate our sandwiches, but we didn't have any tea as we'd not drunk it the first two days as it was so warm and neither of us fancied any. It would have been appreciated today. 


A steep descent and then across moorland, which was dry and spongy underfoot, nicer to walk on than paving, then along white sandy paths with a few trees dotted around above the source of the River Yarrow. 


We followed a typical pennine paved path over the moors along Spitlers Edge to Great Hill. Here we had a sit in the shelter, which was pretty great. Would have been better if we'd had some tea. It was then that we made the alarming discovery that we'd only walked 10 miles. 


We were headed to Darwen Tower, but it didn't seem to be getting any closer. Our route was rather circuitous, but eventually we got there and went up to the top to see the view. It was very windy, but looked as though the new metal top section would stay put, unlike the old wooden top that blew away in 2010. The tower itself was built in 1897 to celebrate Queen Victoria's silver jubilee. 


There was much yelling, some at dogs and some at kids who were being warned not to vandalise things that that stood for a thousand years. 


Coming down off the moor we took advantage of the facilities at the visitor centre and then crossed the road into pretty beech woods, with bluebells and daffodils. The path led along a stream with rocky cliffs and tall trees down to the banks of the reservoir, where some people were hanging out. There was an alarming smell of lighter fluid. 


Leaving the woodland we followed a Disused railway line and nature reserve, the path annoyingly zigzagging up and down and then across some fields to the Oak Royal Hotel. We had a good meal and nice stay, although had arrived a bit too late to take full advantage of the very impressive shower.