Coniston to Ambleside, via Tarn Hows

Distance: 11 miles (plus extra to explain weariness) 
Ascent: 550m
Weather: cloudy
Knees: achy
Buzzards,  wigeons, jay,  sheepses

After a BIG breakfast at the coffee shop in Ambleside,  and a very cheery bus ride to Coniston on the 505, we set off walking back along the Cumbria Way. There were a few spots of rain, heavy clouds over the fells behind, and a bright rainbow ahead.

The grassy path was wet but good going. Tarn Hows was predictably busy, we took the far side path over Rose Castle Plantation.

We had lunch (including tiffin from the Lunch Box!) by the bridge at Skelwith Bridge, then took the bridleway over the low end of Loughrigg Fell and down to Miller Brow and into Ambleside.

Bowness to Ambleside via Jenkin's Crag

Distance: 9 miles
Ascent: 425m
Weather: overcast, with sunset later
Goosanders (Mr & Mrs),  swans, ducks, pigeons,

A late decision on where to go,  we decided to catch the 12:15 ferry from Ambleside to Bowness and walk back.

We collected lunch from Tesco and walked along the road via the rugby ground to the church in Windermere,  where we headed up towards Orrest Head,  but turned off along the fields towards The Causeway Farm without visiting the top. We were then on the Windermere Way,  which we followed back, apart from a necessary detour in Troutbeck because of a missing bridge.

There was quite a steep bit of up, as we followed the lane to Town End, then up the bridleway along Robin Lane - don't recall seeing any robins here,  but there was a very nice sunset over Claife Heights.

It was quite dark by the time we stopped briefly to admire the views over Windermere off Jenkin's Crag and walked down the wet rocky path down into Ambleside.

Fairfield Horseshoe

Distance: 13 miles
Ascent: 1100m
Weather: cloudy on the tops, bit chilly.
Forgotten Fitbits: 2
Wainwrights: 8
Fieldfare, Herdys.

Before we left the apartment this morning,  we'd seen three deer in the garden and a heron.

There were blue skies overhead and the water seemed to have drained away in some places, although it was still very wet underfoot.  Many paths had obviously become streams recently,  some still were running with water.

We started off along to High Sweden Bridge, then followed the grassy track up to Low and High Brock Crags, where we stopped to look at a fieldfare. Heading higher, we were up into the clouds, which had been gathering on the tops since about 10am.

It was quite steep up to High Pike, Dove Crag and Hart Crag,  including a tiny bit of wall indecisiveness.

As we stopped for lunch in the shelter on Fairfield,  there were brief patches of blue sky,  although it was damp and I got cold - needing to stop and wrap up warmer not long after setting off.  A sensible walker would have done this when she realised she was getting cold... But thanks to the power of Buffalo Mitts,  I was soon warm again.

The path down is deceptively gentle to begin with.  We went over Great Rigg, Heron Pike and Lord Crag, with clearing views over Grasmere and Rydal Water. 

Dropping down off Nab Scar was steep,  wet and rocky, but we'd made good progress and there was good  light under the clear skies in the late afternoon. Still quite achy thighs and knees by this time.

The footpath through Rydal Hall grounds was easy going, and then we returned through Ambleside.

Christmas Day on Loughrigg Fell

Distance: 7 miles
Ascent: 450m
Weather: cloudy,  rain on way back

After a sensible breakfast,  we set off to walk up Loughrigg Fell.  We didn't go by Loughrigg Tarn as planned as the footpath doesn't go as far along the road as we'd hoped, so headed up the footpath from Clappersgate and then along the tops to Blackmire and the summit. 

We descended by the rocky path down to Loughrigg Terrace (where we stopped for tea and fizzy jelly chocolate in the drizzle)  and walked the higher path past the cave, complete with carollers.

High Sweden Bridge

Distance: about 6 miles
Ascent: 350m
Weather: occasional sunshine, short hail shower

After a lie in and relaxed breakfast watching the birds in the trees in the garden (nuthatch,  treecreeper, blue tits, bfp, robin) we headed off for a walk around the unflooded parts of Borrans Park. Here we saw lots of Canada Geese, one pink footed goose, pied wagtails,  meadow pippets, mallards and goldeneyes.

From the park (grey heron visible on rock outcrop, then it was sitting just a little farther down as we came back) we crossed the footbridge and walked along Under Loughrigg, then up the rocky path to High Sweden Bridge.

The return route was down the new track they've made for the building of the new hydroelectric power system down Scandale Beck. The newly built access track looks horrible at the moment, but it's for a good cause and hopefully will settle into the landscape once the grass and plants have grown a bit.

We returned through the park, although the driveway was only just round the corner.

Barbon Low Fell

Distance: 11 miles
Ascent: 500m
Weather: strangely warm, becoming wetter

After a bit of faffing and buying sandwiches from the Church Mouse village shop in Barbon,  we set off.

The footpath heads into park land and along a stream through woodland,  with a couple of bridges that we didn't cross but had a look from for an elusive dipper, and had a good view of a buzzard.

As we emerged from the woods, there was a heavy shower, so we sheltered (or tried to)  under trees to change coats and pack things away. Then we were out onto moorland,  with the stream below us in the valley.  Unfortunately the footbridge at which we should have crossed Barbon Beck had been damaged beyond use as a result of the recent heavy rain and there wasn't an easy crossing point nearby.  On the map there's another fb a bit farther up the valley,  so we headed alongside to find it. It is open access here, so no worries about there not being a path.

There was a fortuitous small footbridge (not marked on the map, about half way to Short Hill Bridge) so we used this and walked back along the road. The dipper made a reappearance too.

A rocky track leads up towards Bullpot Farm, then after a short while on a road,  we turned off up on to Hogg Hill. A quick visit to the top (quite windy, over a wall) and we followed the ridge along to Barbon Low Fell. Dropping down, we stopped for lunch sheltered behind a wall, and it started raining.

We returned along rocky bridleways, complete with art (rocks in tiny drystone wall enclosures) by Andy Goldsworthy and then across wet parkland with friendly sheep and robins, fighting kestrels and a deer.

Arnside Knott

Distance / Ascent: n/a
Weather: cloudy

A brief visit to the top of Arnside Knott,  as we were nearby at Leighton Moss. It was getting dark, and quite muddy underfoot.

Saddleworth Round

Distance 12 miles
Ascent 450m
Weather: dull and drizzly
Siskins

We walked along the Medlock Valley Way via Strinesdale and across to Lydgate. Then crossed at the junction to the lane that leads up to the back of Wharmton hill, following the paths to the golf course and down the hill. We turned off before the canal, passing under the old quarries and on to the Donkey Trail.

From the end of the trail in Delph,  we headed up by the slippy steps and back over Bishop's Park.

To Hollingworth Lake

Distance: 16.5 miles
Ascent: 500m
Weather: wet start, turning chillier
Magpies, blackbird,  kestrels, crows, gulls, long tailed tits, Reed bunting (reed bunting!), thrushes, ducks, long tailed tits, cormorants,  lapwings, grey herons, dippers, buzzard. Squirrels, bunnies, Highland cows.

We waited until the rain had eased off slightly before setting off up the hill and along the track towards Brushes Clough and under the aerials towards the lane above Denshaw (seeing a few fat blokes in cars driving to and from the car park.)

Avoiding the small angry dog farm and shitty  muddy lane towards Piethorne Reservoir by taking the footpath across the fields,  we dropped down to join the path. It's also open access here, so we didn't worry too much about following the exact path to the reservoir.

We followed the track around the lakeside and then crossed the wall, heading around to the far side,  where we had lunch and tea. There's a path on the map that goes through the small patch of woodland,  but no sign of any actual paths, so we followed the path by a wall above and round to head towards the motorway bridge.

Over the bridge we crossed farmland,  some of which was rather muddy indeed, and then down wet rocky paths towards Hollingworth Lake.  The flooded farmland provided some good birdwatching,  then the cafe by the lake provided fine coffee and tiffin.

It was getting quite dark by now (about 3:20pm) so we decided to head back along tracks to Piethorne and then along the roads through Newhey and up Buckstones Road to meet the track by the small intake track. Here we turned off road and resorted to torches, startling a couple of Highland cows and doing some stargazing (bit early for the geminids)  along the track to home.

Smardale Gill

Distance: 9 miles
Ascent: 200m... if that...
Weather: rain on and off, occasional blue sky and sunshine.
Buzzards, heron, goldfinches,  long-tailed tits, red squirrel, nuthatch (probably), pixie goblet lichen

It was raining very heavily as we set off, the lanes running with water and the ground very muddy. The streams and rivers were full and fast running. The path crossed a few pillow mounds (in italics) and across grass fields with sheep to Smardale Bridge which is on the C2C path. We weren't on it for long, turning off almost straight away along Smardale Gill a very pretty valley above Scandal Beck. We saw buzzards and a red squirrel on a dry stone wall. The rain eased off and eventually stopped,  blue skies appearing and a view brief patches of sunshine.

We carried on beyond the viaduct into the nature reserve, where we did some bird watching, frustratingly lacking in binoculars or zoom camera. Here we saw a couple of trains crossing the Smardale Viaduct which is on the Settle to Carlisle line. At the end of the reserve,  we turned back towards the viaduct (taking a detour down into the treed valley, but didn't see anything very interesting down here) and then met some other walkers who soon turned back, surprisingly, seeing as they were about three minutes away from seeing a view of the very impressive Smardale Gill viaduct. It was quite windy as we crossed, then carried on along the dismantled railway line, passing lime kilns and interesting fungi, back into Newbiggin-on-Lune and afternoon tea at the garden centre.

After lunch we waited a short time for the heavy rain shower to pass, then followed the path and bridleway to Ravenstonedale.

Ravenstonedale Common

Distance: nearly 11 miles
Ascent: 830m
Weather: wet and windy
Goldfinches,  heron, wet sheep

The forecast for today was for light rain. It wasn't actually raining when we set off, but it wasn't long before it started.  We walked through Ravenstonedale village and along a very wet track up into the low cloud to Knott, where it was also windy.

We dropped down off the ridge and contoured around towards Knoutberry, with misty views of Gais Gill and its waterfall,  and then up to Green Bell (605m.)

The going was grassy and wet, a little slippy in places as the ground was sodden but pretty firm overall. We crossed over a col and headed up to Randygill Top, which was the highest point of the day at 624m. From here we went north to Hooksey,  our last Hill of the day,  and then followed the clear track along and down the ridge to Weasdale. Here we took a detour through the nature reserve over to Newbiggin-on-Lune for a fine afternoon tea at the garden centre, watching the wind and rain against the conservatory windows. By this time,  we were both pwt. Questions will be asked later.

Fine footpaths through fields took us back to Ravenstonedale,  the skies clearing slightly - although the rain didn't stop.

Marsden Moor, over March Hill

Distance: 9 miles
Ascent: 450m
Weather: blue sky, warm
Kestrels, long tailed tits,  geese formations.

 

After a fairly late decision to go for a walk (germs permitting) and it being a lovely morning,  we weren't sure if there would be any space in our chosen car park up on Marsden Moor, but there was, and we were set off walking by 11.20am. We went east along the Pennine Way, but soon turned up a path north towards March Hill, following some off road bikes in the distance.

 

I had a play in a boggy bit, then washed hands and antibacc'd, hopefully sufficiently.  As we were coming down the other side of the hill, we saw the off roaders making their way up to the main road, apart from one who was having a bit of difficulty.

 

The day was warmer than expected,  so there was some decoating,  and also some dark contrast in the shadows, making it quite hard at times to see the muddy path under the grass / reeds. Coming to the lane, there was a lot of wet and a bit of map reading practice.

 

Lunch was had overlooking Marsden, stunning in the autumn sunshine and we were visited by ladybirds and butterflies.

 

We went over Pule Hill, the incline (dis) remaining dis today. There was a couple lads coming up the other way, one of whom was struggling a bit and making some rather distressing noises. We gained an hour on Standedge Edge, enjoying the afternoon not quite setting sun.

 

 

Libearty Bear Sanctuary, Vulcan and Bran Castle

Last day of holiday in Transylvania. We visited the Libearty Bear Sanctuary and heard the sad bears' stories, then had a short walk through the countryside, pretty oak woodland with goats and goatherd, kestrels and shrike (red backed?) to the nearby village of Vulcan, before visiting Bran Castle.

Bran Castle itself is really pretty and not Dracula-y at all, because there’s no real link between the castle and the story, other than Bram Stoker saw a picture of it. There’s one room with a display board about the story, and another about Vlad the Impaler who is also often linked to the place (he marched his army past it a couple of times but never went inside) but outside is a different matter – half the village is given over to market stalls selling tat. I bought a couple of shot glasses and a mug for a grand total of £3.

Dumbraviţa Lakes & Brasov

Birdwatching morning at Dumbraviţa Lakes, where we saw
Black stork
Snowy egret
Little egret
Heron
Ruff
Grey plover
Sandpiper
Great crested grebe
Redstart
Collared pratincole, which the chap from the university and ornithological society of Romania got very excited about.

In the afternoon we had a tour of Brasov, and walked up the zigzag path to the hilltop that overlooks the town and has a large Hollywood style sign. The path was pretty, but a little slippy in places.

On the Piatra Craiului Mountains

Distance: 11 miles
Ascent: 700m
Weather: most cloudy, rain late on
Chamois, nutcrackers, fungi, friendly cats, small brown frog.

 

From the villa we walked through the village and along by some houses, to a rough track that led down to the gorge. We hiked back up the canyon, turning off up one of the steep tracks just past Nicole Kidman's cave. There were chamois on the opposite hillside, way off in the distance. I managed to get a very ropey picture of them, but they were quite clear through the binoculars.

The path went into the trees and steadily upwards. It was very quiet and peaceful in the forest,  and there was sign of pine martens and lots of fungi.

 

A wide meadow opened up, where there were lots of little common button mushrooms, later on we saw masses of mushrooms and toadstools. We had lunch on some tree stumps, watching the clouds come in, then walked on up through woods and meadows to the Curmatura Cabin mountain hut where we had soup (choice of bean or veg) and a sit inside, it was warm and cosy inside, just the sort of place you'd want to cosy up on a snowy winter walk - but apparently the loos left quite a bit to be desired.

 

We came down by the forest road, being deforested in parts and much churned up,  back into the gorge. As we'd spurned the offer of getting the minibus down to fetch us, we had to walk back up the hill in the (by now) quite heavy rain.

 

 

 

Horse Carts & Walk to Monastery Coltul Chililor

Distance:
Ascent:
Weather: misty

 

We walked from the villa down the road, in the mist, with occasional views of the woods on the hillsides, to the track near to the start of the gorge. At the top of the hill, the sun had just been starting to come out, but as we walked down deeper into the valley we were back into the clouds.

 

As the road levelled out at the bridge, we were met by our horses and carts, who, after a couple of false starts and some shouting at the horses, took us bumpily down the valley and through the outskirts of the village.

 

There were loads of sparrows and crows, some of them hooded,  probably due to the abundance of horses. After a stop to visit a shepherd's hut, where we met a shepherd and his flock and had some lovely fresh sheep's cheese, and a short run up a steep track, the horses stopped and we walked on.

 

The path went up a wooded hillside, and turned right just as it got steeper and more rocky. We took a grassy path up to a lane with a large Jesus sign, and then up to the monastery. Here we had lunch by their impressive wooden gateposts, and the monk let me have a look inside, as I had my hat on.

 

We walked back down, seeing lots of fungi, and met some dogs who herded us along. The farm donkey did some impressive braying.

 

On the way back, from the front of the horse cart, we had fine views of the valley, with buzzard, and a conversation with the driver, which was something to do with my hat, but beyond that I'm not sure. The only thing we really agreed on was that donkeys are eeyores. Some urchins hitched a ride through the village, which they thought a fine thing, despite the driver threatening them with his whip.

 

After coffee and cakes,  we took the minibus out deep into the woods,  then walked a while,  before crossing a rickety bridge over a stream to the bear hide. We were treated to seeing five bears, including a mother and cub, which was magical.
 

 

 

Valea Prapastiilor

Distance: 12 miles
Ascent: 600m
Weather: pleasant morning, turning to rain at lunchtime, then thunder and lightning

 

From the village we walked along the lane and then turned off down a steep little path through beech woods to a track which headed around a sharp corner into a narrow, steep sided gorge. The gravel track climbed gently, with beautiful trees and overhanging cliffs on either side.  We saw a Ural Owl, a wren, and a cave where Nicole Kidman once had a snog (apparently - the film Cold Mountain was filmed here.)

 

Passing the end of Cat Gorge, the path became steeper and we zigzagged around into the gorge, climbing steadily. Lunch was had on some logs, just as the gathering mist began to turn into proper rain. The rain eased off for a while, as we walked through pine woods and out into a fine high meadow,  with fascinating fungi and signs of wild boars. Then the rain stopped being eased and we put our waterproofs back on and headed back along a grassy path back to the village. Four salamanders later, the thunder and lightning began, making the horses on the opposite valleyside panic, and the rain got really quite heavy.

 

It began to clear and blue sky beginning to show as we got back to the hotel, just in time for tea and cake.

Around Magura, Transylvania

Distance: 7 miles
Ascent: 400m
Weather: warm and sunny

 

Here we are in Transylvania, in the Carpathian mountains in the middle of Romania, for a week of walking and wildlife spotting.

 

Today we visited the local village which spreads loosely around our guesthouse,  seeing lots of fine views, with haystacks, sheep and guard dogs. We had lunch with some very friendly goats and a playful kitten. Saw a honey buzzard, a black woodpecker and a black squirrel. Also redstart, goldfinches and jays, shaggy inkcap (lawyer's wig!) fungus.

 

We visited a bat cave, where there were horseshoe bats, and a very low roof.

 

Feizor and Wigglesworth Scar

Distance: 12 miles
Ascent:
Weather: mostly overcast with sunny spells
Kestrel, buzzards, cows

We set off from Settle north along the Ribble Way, which followed the riverside for a short distance and then turned away along a path through fields that runs next to the lane, but most people preferred to play with the traffic. We headed up on to the hills through sheep fields, throwing in some zigs and zags down to Little Stainforth and back up passed Smearsett Scar.

We made a loop around Wharfe Woods and through Oxenbar Woods, which were very pretty and included belted Galloway cows (one of whom was quite startled.) We had lunch here and attempted (with poor results) some birdwatching.

Returning, we passed Feizor (which has a very popular cafe) and walked along Wigglesworth scar, a a very dramatic edge with good views, limestone outcrops and a small cave to look in. A short break was had at the quarry, where I proceeded to throw Vimto over Rob in a moment of hoverfly related excitement, and then we returned to town down a loopy track with more cows.

Settle Caves and Forces

Distance: 10 miles
Ascent:
Weather: sunshine and showers
Kestrels, crows, bunnies,  pippets,  wheatear, lucky ducks on rocks, bunnies

We left Settle and headed east up to the hills, visiting a hill with a trig point and some bog.  Coming down,  we skirted some bog and cows, attempted to visit a cave and gave up as it was much higher up than it looked from below the scree.

We went to visit Victoria and Jubilee Caves, which were very cave-y (clearing the litter of someone's lunch.)

Crossing the style we saw some geology 2 out of 3 again) and some erratics (one of which was being closely investigated by a chap in a 4x4 who was determined to park really near to it) and stopped for lunch,  in rain showers.

The afternoon had two waterfalls and a very pretty walk along the River Ribble. At the end of the walk we crossed the bridge and headed back up to the Pennine Bridleway and back into Settle.

Greenfield in the Mist

Distance: 10 miles
Ascent: 440m
Weather: misty, rainy

Baby ducks and geese, slugs and snails

 

We went via Strinesdale and along Brighton Road, through Grasscroft into Greenfield to meet Jacqui at the station.

 

Lunch was bought and we headed off along the canal to Uppermill,  then along the Donkey Trail (where we stopped at the picnic table for some food) to Delph and over Ship Lane and Bishop's Park.

 

It was misty, quite warm and wet, with no views until much later in the afternoon.

 

Black Hill from Brun Clough Reservoir

Distance: 12.7 miles
Ascent: 500m
Weather: cloudy, drizzle, light rain
Feet: wet
Trouser decisions: bad
Bog cotton, cuckooflower, buttercups, curlew, grouse, golden plover, pippets, geese and goslings.

Needing to put fuel in the car led to a last minute change of plan - well, vague idea would be more of an accurate description - and we decided to walk from the car park on the A62 near Standedge Edge,  which is next to Brun Clough Reservoir.

From the car park we headed towards Black Moss Reservoir, and up into the clag.

The original Pennine Way route went up over White Moss but was moved years ago. Thankfully there is a line of stone flags now, so it's not crossing a bog in a fog... not all the way,  anyway. The stone path stops at the road and from there over Dean Head Moss to Black Hill you are left to pick your own route - we followed a line of posts just about visible through the cloud. This runs parallel but to the left of the line on the map, and led us straight to the cairn (plus its monument, otherwise known as Soldier's Lump) on Black Hill.

We stopped here for lunch, and wringing out of socks, before heading down the familiar Pennine Way path. We stayed on the path across Dean Clough (no trouble with floods or bears today) and followed the Pennine Way back, with a slight detour to cross at the end of Wessenden Reservoir and visit the waterfall rather than the steep path down and back up.

There were people with unruly dogs here, resulting in a muddy paw marks practically on my shoulder.

The weather that I commented was coming in, arrived a bit quicker than expected and we got wet. We discussed how wet we were getting quite a lot, while getting wetter. We won't dwell on this.

We were soon back at the car, and very wet indeed.

Downs Ways Summary

315 miles walked in 17 days

Stayed here:

London                  Belle Cour Russell Square
Alfriston                Ye Olde Smugglers Inn
Pyecombe              Jack and Jill
Washington           Pitstop FIndon
Cocking Hill          Bluebell Inn
East Meon             Ye Olde George Inn
Winchester            Westgate Inn
Alton                     Swan Alton
Farnham                Princess Royal
Newlands Corner  Manor House
Reigate Hill           Bridge House Hotel
Westerham            Kings Arms
Wrotham               Bull Hotel
Thurnham             Black Horse
Lenham                 Dog and Bear
Brabourne             Five Bells Inn
Dover                    Best Western Dover Marina
Canterbury            Cathedral Gate Hotel

North Downs Way - Day 9

Dover to Canterbury
Distance: 20.5 miles
Ascent: 450m
Weather: warm and sunny

Abandoned socks: 1
Foxes: 3
Bunnies galore
Yellowhammer, buzzards, kestrel, skylarks
Big chicken standing next to a very small horse

We left Dover in the sunshine, heading north. This side of town is a bit posher than the way we came yesterday evening passed the Immigration Removal Centre (shown on our older paper map as the Young Offenders Institution.)

Beyond the recreation ground (ladies doing their exercises) the NDW turns up a tree-lined byway which follows the course of a Roman road. It was closed to vehicles while awaiting repairs and was quite rutted in places.

At Guston the new route of the path takes a sharp right, up to a bridge that crosses a dual carriageway, and then back. There were lots of flies along here and then we had to cross a field, taking a fair bit of it away with us attached to the bottom of our shoes.

We stopped for a tea break on bench in an overgrown church yard and then walked through the lovely little Piddle Wood, which is a tiny, circular copse with gates either side. It's just the sort of place that could be a portal to another dimension, although everything seemed much the same on the other side, it was possibly a bit sunnier.

Through Waldershare Park there were big old trees in the parkland and then big old trees in the fields like little islands of trees and flowers, overlooked by an old tower.

A very straight line took us through crop fields and across Balham Downs, almost parallel to the dual carriageway, which uses the course of the Roman Road here.

We got to walk by the side of it for a while,  skirting aroung Higham park and gardens (shoddy front garden from what I could see) but an impressive orchard and surrounding parkland.

Around the other side of the house, we returned into park/farmland with a kestrel overhead. Near the last marker post (which says 15 miles to Dover when actually it's 18) and had a sit down and some tea and the last of the biscuits (apart from the pack of bourbons and melted, squashed mars bar we've been carrying around for the last ten days. Actually the mars bar is probably more like 16 days.)

Patrixbourne is a pretty village with thatched cottages and the church has a very intricately carved doorway.

We walked along lanes into Canterbury and made our way to the Cathedral. There are repairs underway on the 12th century round window and much scaffolding.

We are staying at The Cathedral Gate Hotel,  which is just that - on the gate overlooking the cathedral. It's a very old, warren-like building with alarmingly sloping floors.

Due to a mix up (which probably occurred as we came through Piddle Wood) it's turned out to be very good value. We ate out at La Trappiste around the corner, which was great, and we had a selection of their speciality (incredibly strong) Belgian beers.