Windermere Way - Day 4 Ferry House to Ambleside

Distance: 12.5 miles
Ascent: 875m
Weather: cloudy, sunny spells

Lots of: bunnies, chiff-chaffs, robins, hordes on Loughrigg Fell
A couple of: swans, ducks, speedy children, squirrels, kingfishers
Fewer: buzzard

Our last day of the Windermere Way today was from Ferry House up to Ambleside,  in the other direction from the rest of our routes but we wanted to end in Ambleside due to transport being more readily available. Chances are that the ferries wouldn't have been a problem today, but we didn't want to risk getting stuck on the wrong side of the lake and trying to get a taxi to come out for us.

So we got the ferry first to Ferry House and walked up the hillside to the top of Claife Heights where, as every steamer captain will tell you, there is at least one of every species of native British tree growing. Our knowledge of trees, especially in winter, isn't good enough to confirm or deny but the information boards about the woods mentioned 8 types of tree here: sessile oak, birch, holly, rowan, hazel, ash, wych elm and bird cherry. There was also soil, but not officially natural soil.

We walked along the ridge of The Heald and then dropped down to Belle Grange, where we joined the lakeside track,  passing people enjoying a spot of fishing and car fumes.

At Wray Castle we turned inland, along a very swanky new path to Skelwith Fold where we crossed some fields up a hill and followed a lane into Skelwith Bridge. We had lunch by the bridge,  where Rob made a very funny joke two minutes too late, and were further entertained by the goings on in the car park.

After lunch we went up to Loughrigg Tarn which is very pretty and very popular,  and then over Loughrigg Fell which is also very pretty and very popular - less so on the side away from the lake though. We did see a few people, including a lady who was looking for the golf course (?) - ed. later investigation tells us that there used to be a golf course to the north of Todd Crag but not since the 1950s; although this doesn't seem to prevent it from being used as a navigation point in a fair few walk descriptions, there is no indication of it on the OS map.

The route down brought us to Clappersgate and, after a bit along the road, we followed the River Rothay around the lakeshore passing the Roman ruins to Waterhead to catch the steamer.

Windermere Way - Day 3 Newby Bridge to Bowness

Distance: 12.5 miles
Ascent: 750m
Weather: cold, sunny
Going: icy

Hands trapped in gates: 1
Slippy slides: lots
Deer: 1
Pheasant: 1
Partridges: some, possibly 6
Cows in woods, jacobs sheep, honky geese

7:10am saw us getting on a bus to Newby Bridge, and we were dropped off in the dark just by the bridge at the side of a busy road. We turned off the road almost straight away up a lane, using headtorches in case of traffic - of which there wasn't any. The lane was very slippery so we kept to the edges and verges as much as possible.

The weather forecast for today was low clouds and mist, but we could see stars as our eyes adjusted to the dark, and as dawn broke the sky was clear. The valley below with Lake Windermere in was blanketed in low cloud and stayed like that all day.

The path took us through Chapel Plantation by Cop o' Cow Hill and over to Gummer's How, where we were overtaken by a very keen photographer. Thankfully he'd moved on by the time we reached the top and we had clear 360 degree views.

Picking our way down the icy path, there were impressive ice crystals in the bogs, we crossed a fence and headed passed a reservoir (unnamed) and into forestry.

Lunch was had on a grassy edge in the sunshine. Then we headed down into farmland, along what was heavily signed as a 'permissive' and 'alternate' path that actually followed the exact same route as the footpath marked on the map, and out onto a narrow lane. The signs are probably to discourage people from attempting to join a nearby track which is a more direct route, and although is a right of way, doesn't actually join up with the footpath.

So we went around the lane, sliding some more, and entered a new nature reserve with native trees and cows. And ice. I can't remember what it said on the information board but on the map it's marked as Birkett Houses Allotments.  Didn't see any sheds.

At Lindeth we briefly joined our route from Christmas Eve's walk but only very briefly.

From here we crossed a B road and headed up a lane which all of a sudden looked very familiar and we crossed the stone stile to Brant Fell. We followed the route to the farm and then went to the top. It was heaving and we joined the crowds walking back down into the misty gloom that had hung over Bowness and the lake all day.

Windermere Way - Day 2 Ferry House to Lakeside

Distance: 10 miles
Ascent: 500m
Weather: cold and sunny

Heron:1 Sunbathing cormorants: 3 Swans: 5

Tree attacks: 4

The first ferry crossing is at 9:50 on Sunday mornings and we got there in plenty of time. We attempted to look at the view from the viewpoint but it was fenced off. Then we had a look around a nature reserve,  where the nature included 'soil'.

The way goes along quiet lanes, some of which were quite slippy with ice and through woods and alongside the lakeshore, some of which was quite wet, especially when the boats went by.

We passed some fishermen who hadn't caught anything and then met a couple of hordes coming in the other direction.

We left the lakeshore to go up to Stott Park Heights where we had a bit of a clamber through the undergrowth and a look off the top of a ladder, before going around High Dam, where there were a lot of people and dogs, although on the main tracks rather than the less travelled paths we were following. We wandered off path slightly to have lunch in the trees at Bell Intake.

We crossed some grassy fields before entering a wood,  where they were in the process of replacing the trees with traffic cones and mud, before reaching the road down into Lakeside.

We caught the last steamer of the day back to Bowness, with a lovely sunset. It was blumming chuffing freezing.

Windermere Way - Part 1 Bowness to Ambleside

Distance: 10 miles
Ascent: 650m
Weather: cloudy, patchy sunshine, brief snow shower.
Things of interest: lost tourists, wren, lots of robins, heard buzzards, snow!

Today we began the Windermere Way, which is about 45 miles in length total and we've decided to do over four days - due to the amount of daylight this time of year and where the buses, ferries and steamers go to / from.

We set off from Bowness at about 10:30 along the lake road and on to the footpath by the shore from Rayrigg Hall to Millerground and up to Orrest Head. There were lots of people at the top and we left them there enjoying the views, and headed down (no bunnies today) gentle grassy fields to Near and then Far Orrest.

On the other side of Town End we had lunch on a bench which miraculously we arrived at just at lunchtime and then followed the track up to Hundreds Road (along with a lot of 4x4s) and up over Wansfell Pike. It was a bit snowy at the top and we had a short flurry, but there were fine views.

Coming down into Ambleside  along Stockghyll Force (pausing to have a word with a walker who was totally oblivious to the fact his dog had been chasing sheep) and back to the pier where we had time for a coffee before catching the last steamer of the day to Bowness in the twilight.

Christmas Eve - Bowness

Distance: 11 miles
Ascent :
Weather: chilly, mostly sunny

We had planned a walk around Windermere using the ferry, but due to the height of the water in the lake the ferries were not running today,  so we had a rethink. We decided to head out and around Undermillbeck Common to Knipe Tarn and back along the Dales Way,  with options on lanes if the footpaths were flooded.

There was a bit of wading, but on the whole it was fine and a lovely day.

Granada

Distance: 17km
Ascent: 300m
Weather: scorchio

We arrived in Granada late morning and, leaving our stuff at the hotel, headed off into the town. We made for the old moorish quarter first, with its little streets and shops with weirdy clothes, leather goods,  tat and a rather overpowering smell of patchouli oil.

We stopped in a tiny market and bought bread, salami and cheese for lunch, which we ate sitting under the shade of a tree in St Nicholas's square listening to great music. Unfortunately the great musicians took a break after not very long, and a chap with a flute and not much talent started up next to us. We moved on - finding a quieter shady spot further down the hill.

We wandered generally around town, visiting the cathedral, the river and a nice little bar before heading off to the Alhambra Palace.

Sierra Nevada -Day 5 Berchules

Distance: 17km
Ascent: 800m
Weather: hot and sunny, cooler in the morning than other days
Ibis bum, angry bee, orange butterflies.

Today's walk was from the hotel, up through the village passing the fountain where we collected our water for the whole day, about 3 litres each.

We headed down out of town and along to a bridge over the river. Along the way, Sammy got very excited about something that turned out to be an ibex, possibly an infirm ibex, but an ibex nonetheless.

From the small bridge over the gorge, we took a zig zag path up the other side of the valley and up on to a flatter area, which had scrubby bushes and smelled of thyme. We passed some bee hives, and met some bees, one of whom was very angry and stung me on the face, which was totally uncalled for.

The way headed uphill, with massive pinecones underfoot. We reached a track and followed that, contouring around the edge of woodland. The track was shady and easy going,  then we turned off down a rocky path through the trees, which wound its way prettily up and down the hillside, stopping for lunch on a rocky outcrop.

The path became hotter and dustier as we descended, the riverbed was stony and wide,  but there wasn't much water in it. The path undulated along the opposite side of the valley, from where we had stunning views and saw some goats up on the rocks.

Sierra Nevada - Day 4 Trevelez

Distance: 13.5km

Ascent: 600m

Weather: Sunny

We walked through Trevelez and up valley, passing a high farm with local character cowboy. Lunch was had up on a grassy plateau under cherry trees, complete with a how many wasps can you get on a piece of salami experiment. We managed six. There were views of the highest mountain in the Sierra Nevada mountains and the charmingly named Dogs Arse river.

The way down was via dusty path to the valley bottom, back along stream, where the paths were quite wet, with lots of butterflies. I saw a small blue butterfly, which definitely wasn't a cricket, and a bright orange copper.

Sierra Nevada - Day 3

Distance: 14.5km
Ascent: 575m
Weather: hot and sunny

We had a half hour transfer and were dropped off at the top of a hill, very impressive road, and walked along a pleasant shady track, slightly downhill, until we came to a track which headed down into the valley.  There was a slight detour up to the head of the pass, where we saw an olde worlde water trough, with roof, and views of the Malaga mountains.

We headed back to the junction and down, the path becoming more and more rocky and steep as we got lower. There was a very impressive goat villa, but no sign of the goats.

Down in the gorge there was a stream and a disused mill, one of many in this valley apparently.

It was quite muddy and the path was quite narrow in places. We had a brief stop (with some sock faffing) and then set off up to the first village.

After a couple of villages we stopped at a very nice bar for a very good meal (houmous, bread, meats and cheeses, then salad, loads of meat and grilled veg, followed by coffee and shots) eventually dragging ourselves way to walk to the end of the valley,  before heading down and then back up a rocky zig zag path up the mountainside to the track.

We had been told that there was a nice shady spot to wait, but some confusion about what poplar trees look like meant we just carried on and ended up back at the car park.

Sierra Nevada - Day 2 Berchules

Distance: 17km
Ascent: 700m
Weather: hot, sunny

Little frogs, snake, Rob saw flying lizard, smallest dog in the world, amusing graffiti of Omar, cacti, interesting geology.

The walk began out of Berchules down the road, following the GR7 international trail. The next village down had a nice fountain so we filled our bottles and met some dogs, one of whom took a liking to Sammy and followed us for a while, till she got tired of it and chased it off.

We misplaced the path out of the village and had to retrace our steps, passing the two local women who had given an earlier warning that the path was closed, our guide not saying a word, no eye contact.

We headed down to the valley all morning,  to a small town where we stopped for a break in a café,  and then followed the river bed along the valley,  the was very little water and what there was, didn't smell too good.

The path became narrower and then just a footpath around some farms, before we started uphill around the valleyside, with expanding views of fields and mountains. There was wild rosemary and thyme, lavender and some small flowers.

Less breeze than yesterday, it felt harder work going up and we took a few stops to rest. Lunch was had by the side of an acequia,  along a path named old chestnut walk, but sadly the chestnut trees are no more. We saw frogs, lots of bees and a snake, Rob saw a flying lizard too, but I was too busy having tummy ache. Probably shouldn't have eaten that black fig, although it was nice.

Walking up became more and more dramatic,  with a great rocky path overlooking steep drops, to a col where we stood in the wind to cool off.

A short detour to view an old fort (remains of,  well some stone water troughs up a hill) with amazing views (worth the effort) and then we came down and follow a windy lane into the village and Fernando's bar where we had a drink and waited for our lift.

Sierra Nevada - Day 1 Berchules

Distance: 7.5 miles
Ascent: 650m
Weather: hot, sunny, pleasantly breezy

We set off at 10am towards Berchules village, stopping at the fountain for water.
The path out of the village became dusty and quite rocky, with scrubby plants that were mostly familiar,  broom, brambles,  thyme, thistles.

We passed bean and tomato plantations, and old threshing areas, which are now disused, would make nice seating areas if they were tidied up a little.

The birds that we'd seen yesterday were identified as bee-eaters and seemed to be quite common. We saw a couple of birds of prey that were too far away to see properly and some swallows.

Going higher up the hillside, there were  acequias, water ditches, by the sides of the path, some with water but most were dry, thanks to the plastic pipes that the farmers use to get their water nowadays. Probably a more efficient use of water, but not so good for the wild plants and trees.

We stopped for lunch in the shade of some poplar trees and then walked up onto the edge of a drainage system around the hillside,  looking towards the sea, with views of masses of plastic polytunnels way off in the distance,  and even farther away, over the sea, North Africa.

The path down to the was quite steep and dusty,  we passed a big old chestnut tree, and then back into the village,  calling in at a bar "The Cowboy" for a beer.

Allerdale Rambling by the Sea

Distance: 8 miles
Ascent: not much at all
Weather: warm and sunny
Fish and chips: huge

Seagulls, stonechats, oyster catchers, wheatear, flocks of turnstones.
Ox eye daisies, scarlet pimpernel, poppies, thrift, thistles.

A linear walk from Maryport to Allonby and back, along the Allerdale Ramble, the beach and the England Coastal Path.

Allerdale Rambling

Distance: 12.5 miles
Ascent: 450m
Weather: warm and sunny

Kestrel, buzzard, bunny, giddy cows, placid cows. Skipping sheep.
The shittiest lane in the world.

Views of the Isle of Man. 
Wainwright Outlying Fells: Watch Hill, Watch Hill Setmurthy Common, Clints Crags.

On the last day of the Pennine Way, our flask of tea was noticeably tepid, so it wasn't a huge surprise but still sad this morning that it had failed completely. We have others but that was the first one we got for our first holiday in Snowdonia 13 years ago.

So, tea and biscuit-less,  we set out from Cockermouth this morning to walk a bit of the Allerdale Ramble. It was much warmer and sunnier than we'd planned for, the weather earlier in the week had been decidedly cool. I wore my fancy wool hat, and it was a successful test although probably wouldn't be good if it was much windier.

It was a fine day, we saw many butterflies and buzzards and met lots of friendly cows. Rob slipped on a tree root coming down a path through some pine woods. I banged my knee on a stone stile and was startled by a cow, but at least it didn't lick me.

We timed our walk quite well, as we'd got in and were just having a coffee when it started raining.