Shap Wells

Distance: not far (4 miles)
Ascent: not much (130m)
Weather: warm and sunny
Red squirrels: 5
Lizards: 1
Doll gibbets: 1
Sheep, horses, cows: lots
Waterfalls: none

A sunnier day today, we decided to have a potter around from the hotel before driving home. They have red squirrels in the woods right next to the hotel which are fed and practically tame. A short walk through the woods up to the monument and around the rhododendron woods didn't quite take the hour that the little walk leaflet had suggested, so we headed off in search of Docker Force waterfalls marked on the map not too far away. It wasn't far but even so it took a while to pick our way through boggy fields and identify correct gates by farms and proper paths through the fields. In the end we didn't see the waterfalls, although we could hear them through the fenced off trees, and we headed back. The lane and drive were drier and pleasant in the sunshine, and we saw lots of butterflies on the thistles and a little common lizard.

Wet Sleddale Horseshoe

Distance: 12 miles
Ascent: 685m
Weather: hazy start, warm and sunny later
Herds of deer: 2
People shouting: 2
Frogs: 3
Also buzzards being buzzards, emperor moth caterpillar, dragonflies, horrible flies, unidentified bird stood in lake.
Midge bites: 1

Wet Sleddale by name, wet by nature.
We parked at a large car park near the top of Wet Sleddale reservoir and headed off up the track. It was a slightly misty, hazy morning, but still and quite warm. The information board in the car park promised a variety of water birds, red deer and even otters. Along the side of the reservoir we heard a lot of birds singing and calling, but didn't see any of them. At a junction of walls and steams (by an unexpected computer in a wall) we headed left following Poorhag Gill on up to the fells by the grouse butts. The sheep around here are very curious of people and we got followed a few times - they also shake their tales in a way I've not really noticed before.

The first top of the day was Sleddale Pike, soon followed by Wasdale Pike, stopping to watch the deer running in the valley. We contoured round to Great Saddle Crag, mostly trying to avoid the worst of the bog.
Heading through some peat groughs we followed a clear grass track that was flat and easy going (still wet) over Brown Howe.

We visited Ullthwaite Rigg and at High Wether Howe (531m) encountered our first person of the day, a radio ham chattering loudly away to godknowswho, and ignored us completely. We should probably have headed off, but rocks have been few and far between today, especially those suitable for sitting on, and so we decided to stop. Sadly, our lunch rock was still within earshot of loud shouty man who barely paused for breath. Eventually he packed up his stuff, his pack seemingly mostly radio and speakers, and walked off, aerials a waving, still shouting away.

We crossed more boggy ground over to Fewling Stones, where the chap was still busy with his radio. He did speak to us this time, although clearly thought we were lost and needed directions. He was heading over to Langhowe Pike and seemed confused that we were going to Glede Howe first, possibly because it's not a Wainwright fell and he'd never heard of it.

We descended down a grassy slope and crossed Haskew Beck and more bog over to Glede Howe (a Birkett) and out to Langhowe Pike (where Shoutyman's wife was busy shouting so we didn't linger) and back over to Great Ladstones, which was quite a steep pull up. By now we had our eye in, and were bog trotting with ease, as once your socks are wet it doesn't really matter, and took a straight line up to Seat Robert (515m) our last top of the day.

A clear path followed the wall over Hallmoss Hill and through a gate, down the field to Sleddale Hall, which is better known as Crow Crag or Uncle Monty's Cottage in Withnail &I. I stopped to take a picture and we were just heading off when the owner called us back and asked us if we wanted to see the house. After a tour and some photos, we left down a tree lined lane down to the bridge (no fish shooting today) and back along the track (with its still-unidentified birds) to the car park.

Crookdale

Distance: 13 miles
Ascent: 750m
Weather: warm and still, hazy without views
Bog: lots of it, better get used to it
Deer: one, then loads
Plants of note: bog asphodel, harebell, devil's bit scabious, cotton grass, deer grass (love this stuff), thistles with butterflies, heather, cross leaved heath, sphagnum moss
Annoying birds of prey that were always slightly too far away to see clearly, possible stonechat, meadow pippit
Fungi: Scarlet waxcap, golden waxcap, egghead mottlegill

Good start to the day, complete with hearty breakfast and discussion about the correct term for a small quantity of baked beans, and after waiting for the rain to stop and quite a lot of faffing about, we were walking away from the Shap Wells hotel alongside Wasdale Beck. There were loads of meadow flowers on the banks of the stream, it had rained heavily last night and was very wet underfoot, the waterfalls were impressive. We turned away from the beck and up onto a track that led towards the A6.

We saw a lot of fungi this weekend - mostly growing on poo, which doesn’t make for particularly attractive photographs but I took a few to try and identify, although this will be patchy as there are thousands of varieties and you really need to look closely at them from all angles but I won’t even touch them. I read some good advice that I shall share here: if you plan on eating wild mushrooms, you should always pick three – one to eat, one for the doctor and one for the coroner.

A muddy track turned into a wet but solid bridleway, and then turning though a gate where we saw a lone deer grazing, followed a pleasant grassy path down to a stuck gate above Hause Foot. We made our way up a steep hillside with a solid looking wall at the top - thankfully we didn't have to follow it along for too long before there were steps to climb over and we were up onto High House Bog Bank (495m). A grassy ridge led to Robin Hood and High House Fell where we stopped for lunch and a change of socks.

We worked our way around the valley end, over a couple of small streams and some groughs and up on to Great Yarlside (585m) to Little Yarlside. We had fine views over to the coast and Silverdale, as we made our way along the ridge, swapping sides a few times, across Whatshaw Common - where I got some balloons! - and back to the muddy track. We avoided the wet riverside on the way back, opting for a quiet lane instead.

T'Heights

Distance: 13.5 miles
Ascent: 650m
Pubs: 2
Frogs: 1


In the paper recently, there was an article about quality local pubs, one of which isn't too far from us so today we decided to go for a walk over to Castleshaw and, if said pub happened to be open as we were walking by, then it would be rude not to call in.

We walked around Strinedale Reservoir at about 11am, where some ladies were out with their personal trainer, and over Bishop's Park grateful for the duck boards. Down the lane into Delph village we came out near the crossing, and I nearly came a cropper on some slippy steps under trees. A quick stop to clean up my grazed knuckles, and we carried on through the village and up the cobbled lane onto Lark Hill. We munched some oatcakes as we walked along the lane, and then crossed the A62 and down to the reservoirs. Coming up the track, we turned left along the track to Heights - although backtracked when the path was too churned up and wet (complete with frog) to easily get through, skirting around and returning via a gap in the wall a bit further on. We called in at the Royal Oak, to give it its proper name, for a couple of pints. Refreshed, we carried on a long the lane into Denshaw and back along the road to the King's Arms at Grains Bar for Sunday Dinner.

Stoodley Pike

Distance: 12 miles
Ascent: 350 m
Weather: cooler than expected, brightening later

 Almost a continuation of our walk last month - we started just outside of Todmorden and walked along the canal (from bridge 24) up through the town. Crossing the Pennine Bridleway and up on to the moors at the big (erratic) stone, going up the steps at the reservoir avoiding the horde. We joined the stone path and followed that though the bog (lots of slurping noises from underfoot) to the Pennine Way. A clear path leads over to the Stoodley Pike monument - we stopped at a stone bench just beforehand for lunch and a flask of tea - and then down towards a plantation. Just  before the trees we turned down left through some sheep fields and on to a lane. Somewhere around here we mislaid the route, but there are plenty of lanes that lead to Hebden Bridge so we just carried on. The battery in my camera ran out somewhere around here too.

We walked through the edge of Hebden Bridge and rejoined the canal, following that back to bridge 24, admiring the boats, gardens and woodland.

Moors and Canals

Distance: about 16-17 miles
Ascent: 550m
Weather: very windy, warmer in the valley

Quite a late start for our first proper walk since finishing the Cleveland Way, we got packed up and were set off by about 10:30am. We headed up on to the nearby moors without any real plan or route in mind, I'd just thought we could head passed the Aiggin Stone and reservoirs towards Stoodley Pike and see how far we got, however out on the tops the wind was cold and unrelenting, so when Rob suggested taking a path down into the valley and walking along the Rochdale Canal back via Hollingworth Lake, that sounded like a fine idea.

Leaving the Pennine Way down a marked footpath at the end of Warland Reservoir, we then turned off to try and find a path which was clearly marked on the map, but in reality there was just moor and bog. Quite boggy bog. When we saw a chap on a mountain bike making good progress not far away, we made a beeline to where he was in the hope that his path would be dry. Or indeed, just be a path. We arrived on a line of paving slabs though the bog, leading towards the nearby reservoir. The line of this path bears no relation to any of the footpaths shown on the map, but we weren't complaining. We skirted the reservoir, came down a flight of steps and down a clear grassy path, stopping briefly to visit a big rock, and then down to join the Pennine Bridleway. The PBW leads back into Todmorden and down (with a fair bit of up as well) to the Rochdale Canal.

This bit of the Rochdale canal was very pleasant - we stopped for some lunch on a rickety bench, watched a family negotiating a lock, saw lots of flowers including yellow flag iris, columbine and stork's bill, and walked passed the highest broad canal lock in the country. We also saw a Hell Dog, which was not pleasant.

Leaving the canal, we followed a nice footpath towards Hollinworth Lake (popular as ever) and then met up with the PBW again for a while, under the M62 motorway and along the track along the hillside parallel to the motorway back up to the aerial and the car.

WTC Ways Trip summary:

Total 233 miles walked in 16 days

Yorkshire Wolds Way -  79 miles from Hessle to Filey (5 days)
Tabular Hills Walk - 48 miles from Scarborough to Helmsley (3 days)
Cleveland Way - 106 miles from Helmsley to Filey (1 + 7 days)

It has been a couple of weeks since we finished our walk, but the reminiscing about how good it was hasn't ended yet. The photos are uploaded and can be viewed here, 

So, in the end, what did I take away with me? I especially enjoyed the varied scenery of the Cleveland Way, although if it is quiet you want, then the YWW and THW will provide this. The Wolds are pretty, and geologically  interesting and we saw a lot of wildlife. I was a little disappointed how much road walking there was on the Yorkshire Wolds Way, especially given the number of times Rob pointed out a nearby footpath which could have been used instead. On one of our "normal" walks, we probably would have investigated them instead, given how often they seemed to run parallel and join up with the route later on, but when on a Way, you really should stick to the Way.

At 16 full days walking, this was our longest trip yet with the highest mileage per day - an average of 17 miles per day, with the shortest day being 11 miles and three days of 22 miles. We both felt these days were good lengths, long enough to be challenging and cover good ground, with shorter days mixed in so we finished a little earlier and had a bit of a rest.

Again we were lucky with the weather, having one very windy day, one day of rain, two rather damp, misty days without views but which were generally ok for walking in and the rest of the time it was dry, with either sunshine or light cloud. Temperatures were in the mid to high teens most days and we usually wore trousers, t-shirts and shirts, with lightweight shoes. On the wet days, we used Sealskinz socks with liner socks, which proved surprisingly comfortable, even for wearing for long periods of time and certainly more so than wearing big heavy boots all the time would have been I'm convinced.

I was very happy with the gear that I took with me. I had a Platypus failure which was disappointing as it was quite new (it has since been replaced under warranty) but water bottles were in good supply so it wasn't critical.

On setting off, I was a little nervous as I had a brand new pair of Asics Gel Fuji Trabuco shoes which arrived the day before and although I've had a few pairs of Trabucos, the style of these seemed quite different from previous designs. They have a completely flat sole and, without the lining that the GTX version has, the seams inside the shoe felt quite prominent and scratchy to the touch, but with a pair of thick socks this wasn't an issue at all. They have very thick soles and good tread, I found them comfortable on all but the rockiest of paths and that was after having done 20 odd miles. They have fine mesh which kept out sand quite well too. Having walked 280 miles in them I've been impressed - but I don't think they'll last many trips like this. The feet coped with the trip very well, other than pre-existing injury niggles. Rob had a blister and I'd done something to my ankle from doing the Oldham Way two weeks before - my ankle was quite painful and swollen at times, but ibuprofen helped and it sorted itself out by the time we got to Filey.

I discovered you can buy gel filled tubes to protect toes and prevent corns, which worked brilliantly on my knobbly little toes. These are made by Scholl, come in short tubes and longer lengths which you cut to size and I heartily recommend them to all people with strange toes.

Moving swiftly on from the subject of feet...

We organised packed lunches mostly but did stop most days somewhere along the walk but several of the pubs mentioned in our guidebook were closed or only serve food within certain hours, so I would strongly recommend checking with places beforehand if you are planning on relying on them.

We stayed and ate here:
Hessle: Premier Inn
    Bought lunch in Co-Op in Manchester previous day.
North Newbald: The Gnu Inn, packed lunch
Pocklington: The Feathers Hotel, had picnic with family
    Stopped at the Wolds Inn, Hugget (excellent steak pies, apparently!)
Thixendale: The Cross Keys, packed lunch
Ganton: The Ganton Greyhound
    Lunch at the Ship Inn, Muston
Filey: The Station
    Lunch at the Clock Cafe, Scarborough
Scarborough: The Royal
    Lunch bought from Cooplands Bakery in Scarborough town centre
Levisham: The Horseshoe
    Late lunch at the Moors Inn
Appleton le moors: The Moors Inn
    Bought sandwiches in Hutton le Hole
Helmsley: YHA, packed lunch
    Stopped at the Sutton Bank visitor centre
Osmotherley: The Three Tuns, packed lunch (ask if the flat is available!)
Great Broughton: The Wainstones Hotel, packed lunch
    Stopped at Glebe Cottage tearooms in Kildale.
Newton Under Roseberry: The King's Head
    Lunch at the Fox and Hounds, Slapewath
Saltburn by the Sea: The Spa Hotel
    Lunch at The Tea Rooms, Staithes
Runswick Bay: Runswick Bay Hotel, packed lunch
    Stopped at Sandside Cafe, Sandsend
Robin Hood's Bay: Smugglers' Boathouse
    Bought supplies at village stores in RHB
    Bought drinks and sandwiches at the National Trust visitor centre at Ravenscar
Scarborough: Beiderbecke's Hotel.

WTC Ways Day 16: Robin Hood's Bay to Scarborough

Distance: 16 miles and a smidge
Total distance: 277 miles
Ascent: 650m
Weather: warm, overcast, brightening up later
Critters: Bunny, deer, brown thing
Best greeting of the day: "By, it's warm, in't it"

Almost straight out of the door of the Smugglers' we turned up Albion Road and up the Flagstaff Steps out of Robin Hood's Bay, around the woods and up on to cliffs on wooden steps, to a stone path with bad erosion. Saw an unidentified brown mammal, possibly a stoat.

Through a woodland tunnel at Boggle Hole and down the steps passing the youth hostel and cafe buildings. It was overcast, humid and still this morning and there seemed to be an awful lot of steps to go up and down and back up. There don't seem to be nearly as many gulls out today, not many winds to glide on.

We passed Stoope Bank Farm, where they are farming hell hounds and out to the cliffs again, passing an old war lookout post, partially overhanging now. We noticed at Scarborough last week that a couple of them there are down on the beach now. The path then widens out and becomes more grassy.

Through some big meadows, the new path through ruins of an alum mine. There were signs saying there are adders about here and to keep dogs on leads for safety. Also signs requesting dogs be kept on leads due to wildlife conservation. And dog owners who think these signs don't apply to them.

Turning up on to a track, we could see the Ravenscar golf course (very slopey) and walked through woodland, there was a tree with lots of big fungi growing on it. In Ravenscar we stopped at the National Trust visitor centre for a drink and bought some sarnies. Walked through more meadows by another rocket post. We passed two benches but it was deemed too early to stop for lunch, so we walked on. There was an old ww2 radar station in a field above the path. It was quite ugly.

Walking around fields and meadows, above Beast Cliff, we heard a beast, possibly a seal, more probably a  highland cow down on the lower edge coughing. There were quite a few sea gulls and crows and a kestrel on the thermals here. There is very little wind today, but it is warm. Cliffs became more wooded with rowan trees, hawthorn and gorse. Coming round a wall we startled a deer, which bounded off over the field and over a drystone wall.  It was too fast to get photo of, so I took pic of landscape instead - from here you can see Scarborough, Filey Brigg and Flamborough Head. Also did a bit of pied wagtail spotting.

At Hayburn Wyke we didn't see the advertised waterful because some people were sitting on it. Nice little woods though - lots of steps and gnarley oak trees. Soon after, we had lunch on bench - about 1.5 hours since we saw the last one. As we approached, a couple appeared walking the other way. We were closer to it, so were able to walk nonchalantly up to it first. Good job too or there could have been bench rage.

Walked on passing an old building, which has seen use as coast guard station, a ww2 mine look out, part of the cold war nuclear warning system and is now bird watching shelter. In the future, it's going to be in the north sea.

Round cliffs (surprise) with fields and skylarks singing. We began to see more people as got closer to civilisation, including two chaps on teeny tiny motorbike and quadbike things. It seems clifftops weren't really the best place to discover how well they corner. We revisited our signpost to Helmsley, at the same time as a nutter with 50 litre rucksack took a picture of it before running off down the Tabular Hills Walk. Didn't think he was going that fast, but we calculate that if he can keep going at that pace, his knee will drop off.

Round the cliffs (overheard little girl announce she was going to have a go on the bouncy castle when then got to the top) into Scarborough and then along the North Bay, celebrating the end of our walk with 99s in the sunshine. The tide was almost completely in, so there was no writing on the sand at the end of this trip; the small strip of sand still not covered by sea was covered with people, doing what people do at the seaside.

We came up to Scarborough town centre through Prince Alberts Park, passing the castle and Anne Bronte's grave. A bit of wandering around and we found our way to Beiderbecke's Hotel. My feet are filthy.

WTC Ways Day 15: Runswick Bay to Robin Hood's Bay

Distance: 16 miles
Ascent: 500m
Weather: sunny

Leaving the hotel we walked down a steep road, with a stepped pavement down to the beach. We walked over the sand (which was damp and didn't get into ones shoes), low tide being at 10am this morning which was very convenient, hopping over little streams and headed up a wet little gully with a stream running down it. Crossing the stream, we went up the steps with a handrail (according to the guide book this bit used to have a rope to hold on to to pull yourself up the scree) and up more steps in the shade of some little trees and out onto cliff tops, surprising some hares.

As we walked, we had a good look at the gulls: think they are mostly herring gulls, plus something smaller which could be fulmar. There were definitely some cormorants too. Then we decided gulls am too hard.

The route follows around cliff tops, coming down some steep little steps (designed for people with tiny feet) and onto old railway, could see the tunnel entrance going into the cliffside, apparently a mile long. The track runs through old disused alum quarries, now nature reserves, with views of Whitby on the other side of the wide bay.

Round the corner into Sandsend, where we stopped for tea and huge cakes, before walking along the side of the road next to the golf course to Whitby. Through Whitby (people!) and up the 199 steps to the abbey and back out on to peace of the coastal path.

We passed the old fog horn and light house stations and saw lots of sea birds perched precariously on the cliff faces. We had cliffs to our left and fields on our right, some arable, some cows and later mostly sheep. Had our sandwiches by the side of path and then discovered a bench 10 minutes further on, and later agreed that our spot was a lot more sheltered and therefore much better. A path joined at Maw Wyke Hole, near Hawker, the coast to coast path again, which finishes in Robin Hood's Bay, only one walker had made it this far at the same time as us. It was a very pleasant wide cliff top path in the sunshine.

Getting towards the village, we saw the Rocket Post, from where they used to rescue people from wrecks in the breeches buoy. There was a picture of someone being rescued in the breeches looking relieved and yet slightly embarrassed at the same time.

We are staying at the Boat House at the Smugglers' which is down in the old village, right next to the sea. We ate lots of crab and dish, drank wine and then avoided the crowds of hippy guitarists who have invaded for their folk weekend. Folk these days seeming to mean U2 and Guns n Roses...

WTC Ways Day 14: Saltburn to Runswick Bay

Distance: 13 miles
Ascent: 500m
Weather: warm, bit hazy, sea breeze
Plants: Kidney vetch, dyer's greenweed (ed- broom!), scarlet pimpernel, fragrant orchid, restharrow.
Jetfighter: 1 (hawk)
Sand: mostly in Rob's shoes
Frogs in bogs: 1

We left Saltburn at about 9:30 this morning, down the steps and passed the rusty tractors and boats around the Ship Inn. More steps lead up onto the cliffs above Saltburn Scar and on to Hunt Cliffs - a nature reserve. We saw common things like clover, birds foot trefoil, hawkweed, a flat white compound flower (also comes in pink) with feathery leaves, stitchwort, hawthorn and gorse, plus more unusual things like dyer's greenweed and a cliff top bunny and deer, a crow pretending to be a cormorant. Decided my task these next few days of coastal walking is to try and learn to distinguish between different types of sea gull. Not getting very far with this yet.

On Warsett Hill, a farmer actually stopped spraying his field so we could walk past without getting covered. This is a first.

There was an odd gibbet art work that was ugly and then some industrial heritage in the form of a Guibal Fan House which was also ugly, but more interesting. We came down off cliffs and walked through sand dunes into Skinningrove. Stopping to shake sand out of shoes we chatted with some locals, who were being very scathing about the people in the little boat's chances of getting out to sea here. We walked around the village, tea room closed. Up some steep cliffs onto Hummersea, where they've moved the path in a few metres because of erosion - there's a lot of that here. People in the little boat had given up.

Walking passed the Loftus alum quarries we briefly joined a waymarked route called the miner's way. Here we saw a yellowhammer and heard meadow pippits singing, and there was an little purple flower that I've not seen before. It was on a sign a bit later on, saying it is called restharrow.

There was a little frog in some manky boggy water that we had to skirt round and then we got overtaken by some sheep. Coming round Blue Nook, we passed Boulby potash mine (huge) and very much in operation, even saw some miners in all their gear including hard hats with torches. But more interesting (to me anyway) is knowing that 1.1km under ground here astrophysicists are attempting to detect WIMPs (weakly interacting massive particles), researching into dark matter.

From here we walked down into Staithes, avoiding the old road which has fallen off the cliff. Staithes is a pretty, colourful little jumble of houses above a harbour and we stopped for lunch at the lovely little Tea Rooms. We walked back down the 'old stubble path' above and through the houses, which seem to be built on top of each other, to the harbour and back up the cliffs again, to go over Old Nab (whose days look numbered) and over Port Mulgrave where there used to be a mine and now some people were fishing.

At Rosedale Cliffs we could hear falling rocks and could see a big pile of fresh scree at the base of Lingrow Cliffs a bit further on. According to the couple I spoke to, who lived in one of the cottages we'd just passed, this was the only bit of coastline that had changed shape in 13 years and we'd be fine. Still, we didn't linger on Lingrow Cliffs.

Round a few more cliffs, these looking more stable, we turned inland at a little duck pond and into Runswick Bay where we are staying at the hotel.

WTC Ways Day 13: Newton to Saltburn-by-the-Sea

Distance: 11 miles
Ascent: 450m
Weather: misty start, clearing but still cloudy.

It was very misty this morning, the top of Roseberry Topping shrouded in cloud. We walked back up the track and through the woods by a more gentle route than the one we came down by yesterday, through rowan trees with bluebells, rose bay willow herb and bracken starting to shoot. We'd been going for about 20 minutes before Rob remembered to turn on the gps, so we'll be about mile out.

We came out through Hutton Low Cross and Hanging Stone Woods beneath Hutton Moor - there is a view point that we decided wasn't worth a visit on a dull and misty morning like this one, plus the woods are not really looking their best at the moment as they have been burnt, chopped down or blown about quite a lot.

Turning up a track on to Hutton Moor, and then almost straight away turned off that on to a grassy path with stone slabs, some of which were a bit sunken in wet. There were lots of birds around, over-excited lapwings, curlews, cuckoos, a jay, red grouse, chaffinches, black birds, crows and pippits. It rained very briefly while I was trying to take a photo of some cows.

Up on to forestry track passing another view point (mist) with yellow poppies and clumps of forget-me-nots growing on the verge and more pink bog flowers. I really must find out what they're called. (ed- cuckoo flower.)

Out onto deforested area with a newly laid stone track, some patches quite recently burnt, judging by the smell. The skies cleared a bit and we had some views of the coast including a big ship which looked like it was sat on a hill. Down the valley, we walked along the edge of a wooded bank covered with bunnies and then down a concrete road and into a wood crisscrossed with trial bike tracks. We had a dedicated footpath that was left unchurned, thankfully. Leaving the woods, we crossed a busy road and called in at the Fox and Hounds for lunch.

Loaded up with sandwiches, beer and chips we left the pub and climbed many steps up a hillside to woodland and on to Airy Hill Lane. This leads direct to Skelton, where there was blue sky and cows. The Skelton town council have put out quite a few boards encouraging people to visit the delights of their town, but the Cleveland Way just cuts down through some housing estates and out the other side, into woodland with a newly laid path. It's very popular with the local dog walkers by all evidence...

There was a lot of ups and downs (and spandex) in the Valley wood gardens, plus a tree with a little door in it and a fancy green man bench with Metallica lyrics inscribed on it. Of course, Saltburn is a true rock and roll town, being the birth place of David Coverdale. There isn't a blue plaque. I've checked.

WTC Ways Day 12: Great Broughton to Newton-Under-Roseberry

Distance: 18 ish miles
Ascent: 800m
Weather: sunny and hot, breezy on the tops
Buff: contemplated putting one on, but not for long
Aircraft: 3 jetfighters, 1 black helicopter and 2 military jets.
Flowers: Heather, bilberry, stunted dandelions, daisies, boggy pink flowers (ed- cuckoo flower), violets

We were packed up and ready to leave at 9am, walked back to trail through village along the road, turns out it was mostly pavemented. Leaving the hotel, noticed the stacks of luggage waiting to be collected and transferred to their next night stop. The hotel also offers a transfer for (lazy) walkers back to the car park at the trail head. We walked. The lane was quiet this morning, although there was a moment of bunny-terror (involving us, a big dog and a car) but we think bunny was ok.

Climbed steadily up the forestry tracks, warm but very tranquil and joined the Cleveland Way, after a minor bit of route adjustment to get to the right side of the wall. Stone steps led up on to Urra Moor and then Round Hill which should be written in italics, because it is a burial mound - also has a trig point at 454m - the highest point on our whole walk.

Just before we turned off to visit the mound, there was some beeping coming from the heather. More beeping and a brief sighting of a bird later, and we think it was a golden plover. Mostly today we saw meadow pippets.

Path turned off the bridleway and there was a boggy bit, where we each got one wet foot. It is very warm and sunny today, so soon dried out. Well, soonish.

At Bosworth crossing, the coast to coast walkers go the other way direct through the middle of the moors to Ravenscar (or at least they should do if they're not lost and following us by mistake). We turned left along a wide, dusty track over the moors, passing Jenny Bradley (curious name for a stone) and more golden plovers, over the broad expanse of Tidy Brown Hill.

We had lunch sitting on a rock by a gate on the lane, and then followed the lane down into Kildale. Saw a deer running across the fields below us. Then we were back in sheep farm land, with lapwings hooting, and flowers including purple dead nettles in the hedgerows. We stopped at the Glebe Cottage tea rooms in Kildale for tea and a scone and sat at table outside, watching rather podgy sparrows. Leaving the cafe, we walked up the lane and into woodland, which was nice and shady. We visited the monumemt to Captain James Cook who was born near here at Marton in 1728.

Through the car park at Gribdale Gate and up onto Newton Moor, where there was a shrew, a thrush, some red grouse and a curlew. And of course plenty of pippets. Were passed by mountain biker, soon after passed him as he tried to fix his tyre by the side of the path. Later on he was carrying his bike down the path and was still there quite a while later.

Quick jaunt up to the top of Roseberry Topping, which looked quite daunting as we approached and was steep, but didn't take long. Impressive views from the top and a trig point, and then we walked down the other side, getting growled at by a couple's Alsatian dog on the way. They came down the path a bit behind us, the chap shouting at his dog to stop whatever it was that it was doing and come back quite a lot. We visited an odd little folly/ornate shelter on the hillside and then walked down through pretty woods with wildflowers and birdsong, including a couple of cuckoos. It would have been quite idyllic if it hadn't been for the thought there was a naughty, growly Alsation on the loose behind us.

Leaving the woods down a little track where there was some cow visiting taking place, down to the road and a short distance along to the Kings Head Hotel. The hotel is, as the crow flies, about 4 miles away from where we were last night.

WTC Ways Day 11: Osmotherley to Great Broughton

Distance: 15 miles
Ascent: 800m
Weather: sunny and warm
Jetfighters: 2
Bites: 1 (on my ear)
Milage so far: 200 miles!

Set off just before 9:30m, walking through the village and out onto fields, with far views over the valley and noisy A19, passing a herd of young cows and up a track through tall trees. Pleasantly shady here, it was quite a hot one today.

The Cleveland Way shares routes today with the Coast to Coast and Lyke Wake Walk so we expected to see a lot more walkers. Even so, it was a bit of a shock when we found ourselves in the middle of a train of people.

The path led through birch woods, by a BT microwave relay station and a trig point on Beacon Hill - where, despite it being only a modest 299m high, a man was trying to take his own picture next to it. Also saw some brick pillars for things. Without the things.

We went over Scarth Wood Moor, down a stony little path to cross a road (fast cyclists!) by a cattle grid at Scarth Nick - there was a very small kissing gate I only just fit though, Rob used the horse gate.

Path in the woods (fast horses!) where there were bear paw prints in the mud, bluebells, ferns and a monument to Bill Cowley (founder of the Lyke Wake Walk which goes from Osmotherley to Ravenscar.) Heard another cuckoo. We crossed Scugdale Beck over a little footbridge, and walked through some sheep fields up to Live Moor. According to the map, there are archaic field systems here and some Bonny Cliffs.
We crossed Holey Moor by a clear path in some places laid with stone slabs - didn't fall down any holes.

At the Lord Stones, we turned off the route to have a long lunch sitting on a bench on Green Bank. The cafe at the Lord Stones car park is shut because they are rebuilding it. We had very thick sandwiches, very salty crisps and lots of fruit, plus parkin. The views are extensive, over farmland towards Teeside and Roseberry Topping. Lots of little birds, a bird of prey of some description, probably a red kite - it looked a bit like one and, as we all know by now, they are common as muck. Some people had left a tribute of flowers on the hillside, which was nice. Would have been nicer if they'd taken the plastic wrappings away with them though.
Decided to rejig our route down into Great Broughton slightly, as there seems to be nice forestry tracks down into the valley.

We left our peaceful lunch spot and walked back to official route passed the stones, which seemed to have sprouted people, to Cringle Moor. The afternoon's walk involved quite a lot of ups and downs, quite steep but nothing too long. We saw swallows on the cliffs and quite a few little green beetles. I know nothing about insects. The last up included the Wain Stones, an impressive rocky outcrop that we got to scramble over. Coming down the other side of Hasty Bank, we turned off the Cleveland Way on to the permissive path signed to Great Broughton (rhymes with (Patrick) Troughton, according to the local chap we had a chat with) through forest, down a wet little track and on to a quiet lane. The road into Great Broughton seemed quite busy, so we took a footpath towards Wainstone Woods, which was a little muddy and overgrown in parts but passable. We walked down the lane by a stream with ducks and nice houses, and crossed the road to the Wainstones Hotel (we have a four poster bed!)

WTC Ways Day 10: Helmsley to Osmotherley

Distance: 22 miles
Ascent: 700m
Weather: Warm and sunny. Simpsons clouds.

We left the yha at Helmsley at just after 8:30; walked through the market place and up the hill (the distant views of castle because that's all we ever seem to get) and through woodland to road to Rievaulx Abbey. Odd signage along the way here, after almost an hour's walking one signpost said we were 1 mile from Helmsley and then just round next corner another said it was two and a quarter miles there.

We had distant view of Rievaulx as we walked over pretty bridge at end of the lane to the abbey but we didn't visit today as it's a bit of a detour from the route and today was a long day - plus we doubted the cafe would be open yet, the cafe would have definitely made an excursion worthwhile. So we carried on walking, along the narrow road and turned off up a track passing a series of fishing ponds with tufted ducks enjoying the morning sun.

The path led up through woods and out onto sheep pasture, dusty track. The air above was full of gliders being towed off Sutton Bank. Arrived in village of Cold Kirby around back of the pretty church and walked through the village.

We bought some flapjack being sold at one of the houses and had a visit from the honesty box officer, who then escorted us out of the village, despite many pointings and tellings to go home. Eventually the dog got bored, or tired, and after a quarter of a mile turned back. There were two hares being frisky in a field.

Walked on along edge of a wood and through some stables out on to lane, Above there were more gliders, not gliding. I didn't know they had engines.

We crossed a busy road and into moorland, where I had a sit on a rock for five minutes because flapjack had given me indigestion. Walked around the edge of Sutton Bank where the gliders and tiny planes were taking off in quick succession, to the white horse and had a look at the map. It wasn't clear exactly how far we should walk on, the map indicating we should contour around a bit further but the gravel path began to descend steeply, so went out along faint grassy path a bit and back, guilting another walker into doing the same. Turning back and retracing our steps, we carried on to the visitor center where we stopped for a pot of tea, biscuits and a spot of birdwatching. We spotted a marsh tit which turned into a willlow tit, a coal tit and siskins.

We joined up with the Cleveland Way by way of a bendy path through heather. Saw some more birds, most probably chaffinches. The path goes around the escarpment edge, with extensive views over the Vale of York and pretty trees and moorland. We identified a yellowhammer (a robust bunting, apparently) and a kestrel (looks like a kestrel.) Also saw an unusual-looking small green butterfly/moth. (ed-Green Hairstreak butterfly.)

After stopping for lunch sitting on bank ovelooking valley, we then crossed road into Boltby Forest. Track comes out through farmyard with sheep, little lambs and a goat onto the Hambleton Drove Road (very popular with cyclists) with lush green fields and conifer forest to the left and open moorland to the right with Swaledale sheep dotted about.

Leaving Boltby forest through a gate, we were out onto the moors, passing a fingerpost with a 'beware adders' sign. Ooh. Didn't see any adders but did see some dusty looking sheep, one having a good scratch up against a boundary stone, a kestrel and a funny looking big red flying insect thing. The path continued over Black Hambleton which, to be honest, looked much the same except fewer sheep.

Still no adders.

After a mile or so, we passed a tree. A bit further on there were some small scrubby trees. Then there were some tall pine trees and then the path wound down off the moors to a car park and left down towards the valley on a stone paved path. We had a sit on a handy rock and had some parkin, and I discovered I had a hitchhiker. A distinctly ugly looking one at that.

Down the path there were a couple of small reservoirs and a house, the path turning to a driveway where a man in a tractor was taking his bin out. Passing some houses there was some up (up is hard going at this time of day and this end bit seemed longer than it ought) and then walking through cow pastures, sheep fields and bunny extravaganza towards Osmotherley.

WTC Ways Day 9: Appleton to Helmsley

Distance: 17 miles
Ascent: 450m
Weather: overcast with a few spots of rain, turning sunnier and warmer.

I slept quite well lest night apart from the tv in the next room and someone snoring and, rather unexpectedly, cuckoos. This last one was dismissed as a dream.

We left Appleton village around back of the fancy (and fancily named) Dweldapilton Hall, down a stony track with big hedges on either side. It was much cooler this morning, which necessitated a quick stop after not a short time to change tops and put my fleece on. We hadn't gone far when we met some sheep, nibbling the hedges.

Turning right through a gate with an unusual latch and on to bridleway though middle of a field, there were lapwings and curlews. As the path neared some tall trees we saw and heard a murder of crows making a right racket, the path becoming steeper narrower and more horsey down to a gate and into pretty Hutton le Hole.

After yesterday's lunch issues, we decided it would be wise to buy some supplies at the village shop here.
There was a very narrow kissing gate that people with quite big bags only just fitted into and we followed some other walkers for a while but they soon turned a different way. A wet , muddy little  bridge led on to fields, with snoozy belted galloway cows and swallows and swifts. Up the lane to cattlegrid, we got cropsprayed again and saw a weasel legging it into a hole. It probably didn't want spraying either.

We walked through the villages of Gillamoor (pub opened at 12 and we decided not to wait) and Fadmoor (pub closed completely) and up a quiet lane, well quiet apart from a vintage motorbike buzzing around, to a tree lined lane signed to Sleightholme Dale only and down track to Hold Cauldron.

Coming to a bridge near the old converted mill, we saw a deer up the path ahead of us. As we went up the hill (steep!) we could hear it moving in the woods but didn't see it again.

Getting to the top there were lots of orchids, also lady's mantle and yellow archangel. Here we heard a cuckoo. There was then a debate about whether cuckoos sing (cuck?) in the middle of the night, and it turns out that they do. Sometimes - there is an old rhyme according to wikipedia. Or maybe it was a dream afterall. The footpath led out through a field and onto Skiplam Road, which was long and straight and there was nowhere to stop or sit down for ages and my tummy was rumbling - but at least the sun came out.

We passed a big posh house and then went through a tiny, damp little copse the was full of flies. A bit further on we had a sit by the edge of field and ate our sandwiches, watching hares lollopping about. Crossing more fields and woods, we came out in little valley with a farm and jacob's sheep. Heading down the sheep field to a little stream, we crossed a footbridge and into woods full of bluebells. We had a sit on Bob's bench and admired the flowers and ants, and then were off again, up a blumming steep path. Rob saw a deer, but it had gone by the time he turned to point it out to me. The track goes between Carlton Park Wood and fields full of hares and pheasants. I have an itchy ankle and hope I've not been bitten.

The track goes along the bottom of Ash Dale, a wooded valley with many flies, flowers and a woodpigeon chorus. We also witnessed a mountain biker nearly falling off in the mud. He looked a bit embarrassed. The sound of church bells brought us into Helmsley - we walked through the village past the market cross where the Tabular Hills Walk ends and the Cleveland Way will begin tomorrow.

WTC Ways Day 8: Levisham to Appleton-le-Moors

Distance: 13 miles
Ascent: 400m
Weather: sunny and warm

Beautiful day and beautiful walk down little paths and lanes through woodland with just about every type of flower in swathes (ed- plus Speckled Wood butterflies.) But in this world it seems you rarely get anything for free, and the path was a horrible churned up muddiness. We both got stung on the knees by nettles, prickled by holly and poked at by gorse, but at least nobody slipped and fell in the mud.

Crossed some small fields with rough fell sheep and a squirrel, through a gate onto higher track, more mud.
There was a bit of confusion in a cow field near a small farm at Hagg Wood about which bridge to cross over Levisham Beck, as the signs pointed in all directions. We made a decision and crossed the farthest footbridge, then walked through farmyard with big plush chickens and over the Farworth railway crossing.

The THW takes a steep lane up (hot!) and out onto stony lane lined with more trees and flowers. We heard what sounded like  a buzzard. It is very pretty here, apart from the big, burly sheep. We took a detour into Newton hoping for early lunch at the White Swan but it is closed during the day (except Sundays) so we had a sit by the duck pond and watched the ducklings and a baby moorhen.

Leaving the village we entered some woodland and across Stony Moor, which is proper upland heath with rocks, heather and small trees plus plenty of bog. The path leads into a small pine plantation, which looked lifeless in comparison, and out into farmland (bunny!) and onto slightly (maybe) drier (maybe not) paths. We went along a few farm tracks and through a wood of silver birch trees, crossing the stream by a footbridge (passerelle!) and out on to lane into Cropton. We called in at the New Inn for a pint of Yorkshire Pale and Yorkshire Classic - and some crisps because they'd stopped serving food 2 minutes before we walked in.
Leaving Cropton along the road, with a horse escort, we stopped to look at a sign listing some woodlandy things round here, we've seen wood sorrel and dog's mercury, but nothing really exciting like the tawny owl they promised. A nice grassy track led through open woodland, and we made it to Appleton without needing to crack open the emergency food (beef jerky is a lot like Dwarf Bread.)

Leaving the walk for the day, we turned into Appleton (sheep on the main street!) and the Moors Inn, where they brought beer and made us sandwiches. I like it here. (No phone signal or wifi.)