Matterdale Common and Dodds

Distance: 11.5 miles
Ascent: approx 900m
Weather: chilly start, sunny.
Going: soft, soft to bog

We parked at the car park just south of Dockray and walked up through the village and along the lane to High Row. We followed the wide track for a while and then turned off on to a wet path through the grass (and bog, yay) up on to High Brow. Lots of swallows flitting about here. Bog abounded on the way to Randerside, where they were herding the sheep, and then we met the main path again which led us up to Great Dodd.

Little Dodd was next on our route, marked by a small pile of stones and some sheep, and then we contoured round a very wet path around onto Stybarrow Dodd. Here we met Billy the dog, who likes to stand in puddles, and a beardy American chap who liked to chat.

We had a fine lunch, with more tiffin and hot tea, on Stybarrow Dodd before heading over to White Stones (with the annoying drone of a microlight circling overhead), Hart Crag and Birkett Fell. From here we visited Brown Hills, Swainside Knott (with fine views over Ullswater), Common Fell (overtaken by hounds) and down on to Round How and Bracken How - where there was a lot of bracken and rabbit holes.

The path then follows the wall and looks to lead straight to the car park, but the walk had a little sting in its tail with a broken stile over the wall and a steep, rocky, muddy scramble down Brunt Crag. I had to sit on my coat in the car (again.)

From Randerside towards Derwent Water

 Top of White Stones
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Under Place Fell

Distance: 12.5 miles
Ascent: approx 900m
Weather: mostly sunny, one shower
Paths that weren't: 1
Deer: 4
Caterpillars: wooly
Squirrel: 1 (colour undetermined, but hopefully red because of where it was)

We arrived in Patterdale and left the car in the hotel car park, where we are staying for the weekend. A track leads up to Side Farm (where we were passed by enthusiastic campers driving like idiots) and then we took the pretty (but popular) path up around the edge of Ullswater.

An attempt was made to follow a path up the side of Scalehow Beck, but it was lost in the bracken and steep rocky hillside.  We aborted and returned to the track, which was quite interesting (especially the clinging on to roots and tree branches while scrabbling for purchase) the ascend by the clear grassy path further along (this one marked on all the maps) before crossing the beck (a useful gravelly patch in the middle of the stream to jump to) and up on to Low Birk Fell. We had lunch here, with tea and chocolate tiffin from The Lunch Box in Ambleside.  Sheep trods led all over, and we followed them to Bleaberry Fell / Birk fell and up to The Knight, which has a pretty little ridge (making it look very pointy from a distance.) coming down, we passed a couple (he seemed to be having a good time, but his companion, not so much) and followed the wet grassy path back along to High Dodd (steep grassy descent) and Sleet Fell. There was a short sharp rain shower, so we had to put our waterproofs on, but it soon passed.

There aren't really any clear paths down from here, so we followed some streams and deer trods (complete with deer family) through the bracken, where it was least steep, back to the main path. We returned along the lake side path back to Patterdale, accompanied by midges, but rewarded by lovely views of the lake.

Scalehow Beck and Ullswater

Deer on Sleet Fell

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Yewdale and Tilberthwaite Fells

Distance: 10.5 miles
Ascent: about 800m
Weather:  sunshine and showers
Seen: heron, lots of sheep, tree that looked like it was growing out of a rock, but wasn't
Heard: Jetfighter very close by in next valley

The morning was spent doing washing and reading Swallows and Amazons by Arthur Ransome and getting valuable tips on sailing, for if/when we ever take up sailing... this will possibly just after I take up ghyll scrambling...

We took the disused railway line into Coniston and then the lane around to the Coppermines, the same as yesterday, but where we turned off (possibly too soon) yesterday, we carried on up today. Not far along Hole rake, to the surprise of the group of people coming the other way, we turned off up the grassy slope to Kitty Crag. From there, we went to Long Hill, High Wythow, Low Wythow and Brackeny Crag (not shown on the OS map) before dropping down to the path that leads to Tilberthwaite Gill and Yewdale Beck. The beck is crossed by a little footbridge, which was easier than the stepping stones over Crook Beck just beforehand. I made it eventually...

We followed the easy path around and then headed up the coll and up to the top of Blake Rigg, Haystacks, through the windswept trees and steep grass hillside (with plentiful sheep poo) up to Hawk Rigg, High Fell and Great Intake. We followed a path passed some mine workings and then down following the wall to the National Trust car park at Low Tilberthwaite. Here we had a bit of a sit on a bench, before following the lane down to the main road, where there is a lovely path through woodland that runs next to the road all the way back into Coniston.

Towards Langdale

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Grey Friar and Dow Crag

Distance: 15 miles
Ascent: 1450m
Weather: sunshine and showers, strong wind
Wainwrights ticked off today: 2
Wainwrights climbed: ALL 214!
Things Seen: fighting kestrels, comedy bunnies, the Milky Way, the sea.

It was with heavy hearts bags that we started today's walk, to our last two unclimbed Wainwrights.

We followed the old railway line into Coniston and then the lane up towards the old Coppermines. Turning right, we headed up the path to Wetherlam, possibly too soon, as we ended up meeting the main path a little further up - but we do like a bit off off-path. Looking back there were clear views over Coniston and a flock of geese honking away as they headed south.

The wind was noticeably stronger the higher we went, and by the time we'd been over Wetherlam, Black Sails and up the Prison Band (delightfully rocky) to Swirl How, it was incredibly windy indeed, complemented by cold, hard, driving rain. We dropped down to a lower path (still wet and windy) passed the site of the 1940s plane crash and out towards Hell Gill Pike, where the rain briefly eased, and then contoured around to Grey Friar.

We returned the way we'd come, to meet a path that led underneath the Brim Fell (unfortunately still on the windy side, which made for some wobbly walking on the narrow path) and up to Dow Crag. At Goat's Hawse (sadly lacking in goats) we passed at least three people wearing shorts, which gives me a chill even thinking about it, as I was in thick Paramo trousers, waterproofs, fleece hat and Buffalo Mitts. The girl in green, wearing shorts, fleece and wooly scarf, made it about a third of the way up Dow Crags before turning back, her friend in wellies didn't even attempt it.

The wind was very strong, but then eased slightly at the top, where Rob visited the summit three times (I just went the once) and then we had celebratory Jaffa Cakes and Prosecco in the shelter. There were a few drops of rain, but the wind soon blew the clouds away and it was spectacular blue sky and clouds as we crossed Buck Pike and Brown Pike to meet the Walna Scar Road (with quick trip up to Walna Scar top) before following the road back down to Coniston (complete with rainbows.)

Our few pints and slap up dinner at The Sun Inn was excellent.

 

Dow Crag

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Culture, Cake and Countryside around Coniston

Distance: about 10 miles
Ascent: about 500m
Weather: sun and showers (some heavy)
Trees sniffed: 3 (incense cedar, bay, noble fir)
Log fires sat in front of: 2

From our cottage, we took a path behind the Ship Inn up onto the dismantled railway line (which one could probably join earlier from the lane behind the catholic church) that takes you into Coniston.

We had a look around the Ruskin Museum, where gift aiding your entry gets you a year's free return visits - which we shall be making use of as we didn't quite have time to see the Ruskin exhibit before we left to catch the 10:45am sailing of the launch across to Brantwood, where Ruskin lived his last years.

The crossing was a little choppy at times and there were ominous clouds overhead, but the heavens didn't open until just after we'd disembarked and, being first off the boat, we were able to hurry up the garden path and into the cafe, to place our order for soup and sandwiches before the other bedraggled passengers arrived.

After lunch we toured the house, which was filled with lovely things, and the gardens, lots of zig zags, and followed the estate trail out onto a bridleway which leads through some pretty woodland onto the lane that leads to Monk Coniston arboretum. We were lured into the cafe and fed enormous pieces of cake and coffee before visiting the trees, one of which is one of the rarest trees in the world. The tree trail is free and a lot of fun, there is a great NT leaflet.

We walked up the footpath to Tarn Hows and then around the tarns and saw more Humbug cows and a buzzard in the trees.

We returned to Coniston via The Cumbria Way (in full waterproofs) stopping off in the Black Bull for dinner and Old Man Ale.

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Harter Fell and Green Crag

Distance: about 10 miles
Ascent: about 900m
Weather: a little cloudy
Going: wet and boggy
Midges: thousands of 'em
Wainwrights: 2 down, 2 to go

We parked at the car park at Birks Bridge, which has parking for quite a few cars and crossed the new bridge on the forestry track. On the way, we'd seen a couple of deer and some Humbug cows (later identified as belted galloways.)

Leaving the track we turned right on to a wet rocky path heading north through Dunnerdale Forest. Most of the forest has been chopped down and stacked up by the side of the track, so it was more heathery moorland than woods, and the going was very muddy in places, especially the place I put my foot in up to my ankle.

We headed off the path straight over to Horsehow Crags (good views down over the Roman Fort), picking up a faint path that headed though the grass to a stile and up on to Demming Crag and then Harter Fell. There were some hounds out for a run today, their baying echoing eerily around the Fells. It was quite an unnerving feeling, even though I knew they weren't after us, being out of breath as we climbed up the steep grassy slopes of Harter Fell and having barking dogs closing in on us - the sort of memory that could one bad night be a sound basis for a nightmare.

We contoured around under Demming Crag, where we were briefly accompanied by a herdwick sheep, coming to the top from the other side and then made a push for Harter Fell. Here we stopped just behind the summit cairn for lunch and a flask of tea, while watching the cloud descend.

We left the top on the path that heads down ENE and then left that to contour across to cross Spothow Gill and up to Kepple Crag. We followed the line of the ridge up to Green Crag and then down via a sheep trod, which met up with a boggy path that headed through some bog to meet Grassguards Gill where we entered Hard Knott Forest (which we remember well from our North of England Way Walk) with its signs announcing the introduction of deciduous trees, natural habitats and bog, because everyone loves a bog. It was utterly bog-tastic today.

Emerging from the mire we found ourselves on a forestry track, where a couple of very posh lads asked us if by any chance we'd seen any sign of some hounds. Why yes, yes we have. They had been blowing their horn, but I don't think the beagles cared.

We followed the forestry track (accompanied by some very friendly midges) back down to the bridge and the car park.

 The top of Harter Fell

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Hard Knott

Distance: 7 miles
Ascent: 600m
Weather: very windy,  with occasional sunshine and more than occasional wet
Hats lost: one
Bruised shins: two, matching (Rob's)
Wainwrights: 1 (4 left to do)

There is a very small car park right at the top of the Hardknott Pass, and we parked there to start our walk today. We came from Coniston, over the Wrynose Pass, and had some lovely views, it's much easier travelling over the hills by car, but not so easy to stop to take photos.

We headed up over Border End, where it soon became obvious quite how windy it was, on some of the tops we visited it was quite difficult to walk or even to stand, a couple of times we found ourselves sheltering behind rocks or sitting down unexpectedly (that was mostly me) and there was a terrible hat tragedy when Rob's merino beany disappeared into orbit.

The ground was very wet and there were a lot of bubbling streams and bogs to enjoy, lined with a lot of little yellow flowers (similar to Hawkseye), purple thistles and a couple of harebells.

From the summit of Hard Knott, we followed the grassy ridge north, to meet Lingcove Beck and come down a wet, rocky and occasionally very slippy path into the valley towards the pretty Lingcove Bridge and impressively watery Vicar Swa waterfall.

From here the path became better (although still wet) leading to the farm under Bell Stand, where we met the road again and headed up the pass to visit the Hardknott Castle Roman fort. We had a chat with a couple of women walkers who were camping in Eskdale valley, hopefully the site is sheltered - we reckon it must be gusting 60 to 70 mph winds today. The Roman fort is really big, with lots of walls left to walk around. I can't imagine what the Roman Centurians would have made of the north of England if today's weather was anything to go by.

From the fort we walked back up to the car, mostly off road. A few supplies bought at one of the stores in Coniston village and we are happily ensconced in our cottage. We had yummy pies and ale for dinner at the Ship Inn, which was nice but not especially comfortable.

River Esk

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Top Bagging around Haystacks and Fleetwith Pike

Distance: 6 miles
Ascent: about 600m
Weather: cloudy start, becoming warm and sunny
Brown feet: one (this time Helen's)
Annoying dogs: none
Quite annoying blokes: one

As we approach the completion of the Wainwrights, Rob has spent some time compiling lists of other hills that we can climb around the country - focusing, of course, on our favourite place, the Lake District. So we now have plenty reasons to go for a walk. Our new list is a compilation from www.hills-database.co.uk, and includes mainly Hueys, Deweys and Louies Marilyns, Birketts, Nuttalls, Hewitts, Deweys and HuMPs, plus County Tops and mysteriously named "Others".

Today's walk included four tops, some of which proved quite elusive - their grid references encouraging us to walk off edges into thin air (I think not) - and plenty of bimbling about looking at the sheep, views and fish in the tarns.

From the NT car park at Honister Hause, we took the Tramway Path to Drum House and up through the clag following the cairned path across to Loft Beck and up to Seavy Knotts, where the clouds cleared to reveal a lot more sheep in the vicinity than we'd thought. We visited some rocky tops along the ridge at Haystacks SE Top, towards Innominate Tarn, down a good rocky path to Blackbeck Tarn (with fish) and over Green Crag.

There were clear views now, although we noticed (a little bit relieved that we weren't missing out) that Pillar was still capped in cloud.

We scrambled back down to the main path, passed a lady who was very determined to not get her boots wet. I splashed through, taking the opportunity to rinse my boots having had a wobbly rock / mud incident a few minutes previously. I did keep out of the water as we crossed over the next beck at the stepping stones and up the hill direct to Honister Crag, Black Star, where we had a bit of a sit. From here we took the quarry vehicle track back down to the mine, and had some lunch in the cafe - where we were joined by a dog which just stood there minding its own business until some bloke came up and said to just ignore it, then proceeded to tell us a (not very) funny story about him. The dog didn't say anything.

Pillar

Wainwrights: one!
Distance: 11.5 miles
Ascent: 1200m
Weather: cloudy in morning, clearing and windy in afternoon
Hat incidents: one
Flappage: a lot

We are staying at the YHA at Honister Pass, which is basic but convenient for this week's attempt at an ascent of Pillar.

After breakfast (including a fine display of socialist walker toast share debating) we set off up the path from the mine along the dismantled tramway, turning off over Fleetwith and along to the Moses Trod. I did some navigation in the cloud, and we saw lots of herdwick sheep and some little birds. From Beckhead Tarn we turned northwest follow the path under Boat How Crag to Sail Beck where we joined, briefly, Black Sail Path (complete with girl with huge rucksack having a sulk) before turning up to Pillar. We had a look off Looking Stead (where we looked at some clouds) and then we looked at some sheep (in clouds) and momentarily spectacular views over Mosedale.

We took the main (easy) route up to the top of Pillar, which was nicely rocky with a few steep bits. The top of Pillar has a trig point and some shelters, in various states of construction. We got wrapped up and had some sandwiches, and got cold. A hoard arrived, who then talked loudly and had a smoke. We left soon after, back the way we'd come. The skies were starting to clear and there were some views to be had on the way back, so we had another look off Looking Stead and then saw a buzzard flying low over Black Sail Pass. You don't often see them in flight from above.

The winds had picked up during the day, strong enough to blow my hat off, but it didn't go far and I was able to go and pick it up. The wind did blow the clouds away and there were some nice views down to Crummock Water.

We were back to the car at quarter to five, so didn't have long to wait before the hostel opened and we could showers (hot water seems to be in short supply here), a brew and some biscuits.

This walk was very similar in length and ascent to last week's walk at Great Gable, but distinctly less knackering.