Day Eight: Hawes to Redmire

Distance: 18 miles
Weather: overcast, short rain shower but brightening up later. Windy.
Birds: lapwings, golden plover, meadow pippits, skylarks, oystercatcher, mallards.

The day started quite grey and cold, but there were patches of blue sky and weak sunshine. We left Hawes by the road back up through the village passed the Wensleydale cheese factory (where we didn't call in for any cheesy souveniers) and up on to the hills to cross over the Cam High Road. Our path took us across the tops and around to overlook the next valley and Semer Water. This was a bit of a circuitous route, and we were glad that it wasn't wetter underfoot or it would have been quite annoying. We did see a lot of Shake Holes. Wensleydale could give Blackburn, Lancashire a run for its money in the hole department.

Eventually we met up with the Cam High Road again which took us down into Bainbridge. They didn't blow the Bainbridge horn, so we didn't need to worry about any wolves in the vicinity. It did rain a bit here, and so we stopped to put on our waterproofs for the first time during our trip. We took them off about ten minutes later. Bainbridge was like a ghost town (with signs proclaiming a teashop but no actual teashop to be found) probably because there was some wedding taking place.

Thankfully the tearoom in Askrigg was open and served the best tea and scones with jam and butter that we'd have had all week.

The route then took us along the banks of the River Ure to Aysgarth, which wasn't quite as pleasant as I'd anticipated. There were a lot of annoying flies. There was a 'challenging' field containing a herd of cows, calves and a massive big black bull standing in the way. The banks of the river had been all but washed away and left in a right mess by what must have been a vast amount of water coming downstream. Once away from the river we crossed some small fields with low dry stone walls, most of which had too small gaps with tiny little gates. And did I mention the flies? There were a lot of them. And dead rabbits.

We did make it to Aysgarth and the falls, and had a very nice lunch at the Mill Race Teashop, where they have a yummy selection of homebaked breads. We viewed the falls and then continued over through farmland - where they appear to be successfully farming bunnies, as well as Wensleydale and Swaledale sheep, and possibly Blue Faced Leicesters, to Castle Bolton. The castle stands on the hillside looking more like a painting in the distance and then looms dramatically above you when you've made it (slowly - it's been a tiring day) up the hill to the village. Here we stopped for a sit down and a snack on a bench under a lovely flowering cherry tree and watched the lost people trying to turn their massive motorhome around on the village green. A short walk (with more bunnies, pheasants, partridges and a donkey) brought us to Redmire.
We are staying at the Bolton Arms in Redmire and very, very nice it is too.

Day Seven: Ribblehead to Hawes

Distance: 14.5 miles, with detour to Hawdraw
Weather: sunny, but a strong chill easterly wind on the tops.

The bright sun shining into our room was a little misleading this morning, as once we were outside it turned out to be quite chilly. After we had walked back up the road (no stoats today, in fact not many critters at all today) we took advantage of a bit of shelter to change tops and hats and put on windproof jackets. These stayed on for most of the rest of the day - bit of wasted suncream there.

The track, the Cam High Road, is an old roman road which leads up to meet the Pennine Way. For a roman road, it's not particularly straight. The local farmers were doing a bit of sheep herding - they got all but one of them, who looked up eventually and seemed a bit confused as to where everyone else had gone.

The rocky path led across the hilltop and around into the valley to Hawes. Dropping down through some fields, where we saw a plover, we arrived in town. After dropping off our bags at the hostel, we had a nice afternoon tea and went to see Hawdraw Force waterfall. This was pretty impressive despite lack of recent rain, although in our view this is a good thing.

Some quick shopping for a new compass (mine had suffered in a handgel related incident) and a new nail file and lunch for tomorrow purchased. We are now having dinner and a couple of very nice pints of Theaksons in one of Hawes' fine establishments. Off to bed soon, early start tomorrow.

Day Six: Sedbergh to Ribblehead

Distance: 16 miles
Weather: warm and sunny
Critters seen (aside from the usual): bunny, vole, stoat, alpaca, squeaky dog, loads of fish (at least fifteen), oystercatchers, dippers, a kestrel and a buzzard (again being harrassed by crows.)

We had a good night's sleep at the Bull Hotel, had a nice breakfast and then were pretty impressed when they knocked £8 odd off the bill because Rob's steak dinner hadn't been cooked as requested last night.

We left Sedbergh down the road, over a bridge and then turned off up a path at Millthrop and then there was some up, through fields, as we headed over towards Dentdale and the River Dee.

We followed the river all way along the valley to Dent, acquiring a splinter on the way, and stopped for yummy cream teas at the Stone Close Tearooms in Dent. Here the splinter was removed, which was good, although gouging out out did hurt and it's on the knuckle next to the one I mangled earlier in the year which is still a bit bruised. Anyway, enough of me moaning.

From Dent we followed the banks of the River Dee again and the Deepdale Beck for a while. These rivers are quite interesting, as they change from wide slow moving, fairly deep rivers to gurgling streams over rocks, to empty rocky riverbeds with no visible water at all and back to wide slow river again in the space of a mile, all because of (apparently) the limestone riverbed. There were quite a lot of birds about, mostly chaffinches and crows, but also some river birds - and Rob claims he saw a goldfinch too.

A brief refreshment stop was made at the Sportsman in Cow Dub, where I saw a vole - and Rob saw an authentic vole hole. From here we followed the road by the Denthead viaduct and up on to the tops. The moorland path was dry and rocky and hot as the breeze had dropped by then. There was a skylark soundtrack and some bunnies out enjoying the afternoon sun. After a few miles and a bit of good map reading, the path meets the busy road to Ribblehead viaduct and the Station Inn, our stop for the night, which might have been worse but the verge was nice and grassy and we even saw a stoat.

The room at the Bridge Inn is pretty small, but we've had baths, massive dinners and are now enjoying a glass of wine and a sit down.

Day Five: Burneside to Sedbergh

Distance: 16 miles
Weather: a bit nippy, quite windy, few spots of rain mid afternoon.
Bunnies: millions of them
Stiles: more than I can count
Fish seen: lots of tiddlers and a couple that were at least this big *waves hands around*

After a huge breakfast, where we were fed enough toast to feed an army, we were off just after nine o'clock.

We left Burneside down the road, passed the rather tumbledown hall, and then turned off to follow the Dales Way again following the River Mint through farmland. It was farmland for most of the day, with plenty of stiles and steps over drystone walls, some of which were more like climbing walls. At Biglands, where there was a massive mansion house and a pond with some swans that looked to be soon in the family way, we hit the 50 mile mark. Long before we saw the M6 motorway, we could hear it. No jams today.

The Dales Way has been diverted slightly near the mainline railway, which was very busy. We had first lunch watching the trains go by - and speculating as to what Postman Pat was doing driving up and down the same bit of road three times. I might have eaten too much fudge at this point.

We then dropped down into the valley and met the River Lune, which we followed for the rest of the way - apart from a brief spell through some more farmland (the owners of the river are most determined that anyone else won't use their riverbank) and a field that is best not spoken of (needless to say, our shoes had a damn good wiping once we'd found the stile out of there. Farmers have some dirty habits.

Near to the second viaduct of the day, we stopped for second lunch and were entertained by (not really) literally millions of bunnies down the path.

We followed the river into Sedbergh, which seems like a nice little town - rather posh - and we are now ensconced in the Bull Hotel enjoying dinner and sampling some local(ish) ales - Ruskin's (Kirby Lonsdale Brewery), Lancaster Blonde and Black Sheep.

Apologies for not replying to individual emails, we only have limited coverage.

Feet are certainly making themselves felt at the moment, but no serious problems... so far...

Day Four: Windermere yha (Troutbeck) to Burneside

Distance: 13 miles
Weather: warm and sunny
Critters seen: sheep and cows, bunnies, goats, butterflies (mostly white / white with orange wing tips), puddle ducks, mallards and fuzzy ducklings, and a buzzard being harrassed by a crow. There were a lot of crows, and some chaffinches, and a woodpecker (although that might have been yesterday.)

We left the youth hostel at 9ish and crossed some fields (more little lambs) passed a row of incredibly big trees. Following the track through the farm, we met three very friendly dogs and had a bit of a wander through a cow field while trying to find the right gate. A stall promised homemade cakes but there was only water and juice for sale, which we didn't really need.

Through a few more cow and sheep fields, and we were entering bunny central on the way up to Orrest Head. The views over Windermere are very impressive, and as such a big draw for Lake District holidaymakers - which came as a bit of a shock after the quietness of the route we had come up by. We had a rest on one of the benches at the viewpoint, and appeased the Easter Bunny by eating some Mini Eggs.

A windy track leads from Orrest Head down into Windermere, where there were some very busy roads to be crossed and then the railway. First lunch was had on School Knott, and then we were soon joining the Dales Way. The big hills of the Lakes were now well behind us, but the countryside is just so pretty, with hillocky grassy, fields with stone walls, gorse bushes and sticky up rocks everywhere.

Afternoon tea was had in Staveley, which is a strange little place, that seemed deas until you get aroung to the Lakeland Brewery and then it was heaving. Wilf's Cafe overlooking the river provided tea, chocoloate brownie and ginger and chocolate poundcake. We followed the River Kent into Burneside where after not a little wandering the streets we found and were made very welcome at the Jolly Anglers Inn. The ginger theme was continued (by Rob) with a few pints of Ginger Tom beer (I had Cumberland Ale) along with cumberland sausage, yorkshire pudding, onion gravy and chips. Nom.

Day Three - Coniston to Windermere

Distance: 13 miles
Weather: 'glorious'

The day on the North of England Way started with a bit of a walk along a quiet road before heading up through some grassy fields with many sheep and lambs, past a rather impressive dog kennel castle barn shed type thing. The morning was warm and the skies clear, providing wonderful views of the fells that were missing yesterday.

The path led up to Tarn Hows - where apparently the icecream van doesn't arrive until 11:30. We decided not to wait, and made up for it with big tubs in Ambleside later.

The track went through a beautiful valley, with views of Weatherlam, with Fairfield in the distance. We reached Skelwith Bridge at just the right time for tea and scones with jam and butter at Chester's Cafe.

By now the day was distinctly warming up and it was pretty blumming hot going up Loughrigg Fell, where there was a bit of wandering around looking for Lily Tarn. We had lunch overlooking Windermere, and then headed down into Ambleside. It was very, very busy there, unsurprisingly.

From Ambleside, we went along Skelghyll Wood near to Jenkin's Crag, and then over some gentle hills to the yha at Windermere. Here we had a peaceful hour on the terrace enjoying the views from the terrace, had a nice dinner and are now being and screamed at by a horde of kiddies running about (allegedly) searching for Easter eggs. Hopefully it will be (my) bedtime soon.

Lunch stop on day 3

There are worse places to spend an hour.

Day Two: Eskdale Green to Coniston

Distance: 15.5 miles
Ascent: quite a lot of up
Weather: warm and misty to start, turning wetter.

There was quite a lot of rain in the night, or at least that's what it sounded like on the roof - but by morning it had stopped and things were pretty dry underfoot (apart from the bogs, obviously.)

The day started with a big cooked breakfast (where I got confused by a mushroom), and we were set off at 9:30am. Supplies were bought in at the Eskdale Stores shop, including the obligatory slab of Kendal Mint Cake (to be used with caution.)

We walked passed some very big, very impressive houses, on to a bridleway and followed the river Esk for a while. Avoiding some cows being herded into a new field, we headed up on to the fells by Spot How Gill, between Harter Fell and Green Crag.

We passed through Dunnerdale Forest, where they are replacing the conifers with more natural deciduous trees and boggy areas. Their introduction of boggy areas has certainly been a resounding success - we found plenty.

There was a steep rocky path heading down into Seathwaite, with some very impressive crags keeping the climbers entertained.

A fine lunch was had at the Newfield Inn and then we took the Walna Scar Road up to the highest point of the day, at 600m, just under Brown Pike.

The path then heads downwards towards Coniston, joining the main path that is much more travelled from the higher tops. There were a surprisingly large number of very large tents pitched up here near the end of the access road.

Coniston seemed very busy indeed as we passed though on our way to the youth hostel for tonight's stop. Dinner is ordered and we are in the lounge, enjoying a sit down and a pint of High Pike (brewed by Heskett Newmarket Brewery, Cumbria.)

Day One - Ravenglass to Eskdale Green

Distance: 6 miles approx
Weather: warm and hazy
Brown feet: 2 (Rob's)
Bogs found: 1 (by Rob)
Changes to planned route (most definitely not short cuts or taking the wrong path): 1

Public transport did us proud today and we were safely delivered at Ravenglass at 2:30pm, although the train from Manchester to Carlisle was very overcrowded, we had seats booked and so were quite comfortable, which was good.

A quick visit to the Irish Sea, and we were on our way. The North of England Way route goes around Muncaster Castle, which we visited last year on holiday so we didn't call in, but headed straight over Muncaster Fell and into Eskdale Green to our first night stop at the lovely Bowerhouse Inn. Socks washed, we are now in the bar enjoying a nice pint of Pedigree (me) and Keswick Brewery's Thirst Blossom (Rob - being a slightly more adventurous beer drinker than me.)

Training Walk - Last Big Day

Distance: just over 21 miles
Fry ups eaten: 1 each
Teensy fish seen: loads
Smallish fish seen: 4

After a bit of milk spillage clearing up and hat related forgetfulness which necessitated Rob going back to the house, we got set off at 9:30am. Not too bad for a Sunday. It has been another beautiful day, maybe too warm at times but there has been a bit of a breeze. Most welcome.

Today's walk was around the Oldham Way, using the Crompton Circuit and Medlock Valley Way as links to home. The return route also took in the Co-Op for the purchasing of ice lollies and crisps. According to the pedometer Rob did 41800 steps and burned 1240 calories (so I've more because I take smaller steps...) so we can indulge without (much) guilt this evening.

2 weeks before departure

So we now have two weeks before we set off on our North of England Way walk. New boots have been purchased and the last couple of weekends have been dedicated to training walks, about 30 miles in total both weekends - with varying amounts of foot ache.

Today was a bit of a short day - 13 miles, with only a small amount of shoe faffing. And I have been getting to grips with using the camera phone and setting up the Blogger app.

We walked from home around the villages of Delph and Denshaw, along the Rochdale Way for a bit, through Brushes Clough and back in time for tea.

Weather: warm, sunny and dry
Backs: sweaty

Beetles met: 1

Things to add to kit list thought of: bags for maps